Threding on Monarch

[wpala]

Hi
I'm quite comfortable now to use mine standard modern lathe for threading, but have not use Monarch to do so, seems like a bit more setting are needed
I have a round dial if someone can walk me to set lets say 16TPI, I know Lt small turn handle has to be on "C" then dial the pointer to 16 tpi, rt handle on threading what a bout the leadscrew I'm assuming rt hand ? is that correct? please advise, also on the very bottom of the round dial first 2 rows are "a" and "b" then "c" the "b" again and "a " again how does the machine recognize the different threads?
I hope I'm making some sense I did have a glass of wine:jester: LOL and my head is completely preoccupied hunting this weekend but would like to try to thread something on that lathe
Thanks in advance
Paul

 

[Chuck K]

I have a square dial so I can't be of much help. I can tell you that is was kind of a daunting task the first time I threaded with mine. I don't know if your round dial is the same, but with mine it seems you have to engage the levers in the proper sequence or they will not engage. It seems simple to me now, but there was a learning curve. I'm sure someone with a round dial will be able to answer you question. Good luck

Chuck

 

[Cal Haines]

...
I have a round dial if someone can walk me to set lets say 16TPI, I know Lt small turn handle has to be on "C" then dial the pointer to 16 tpi, rt handle on threading what a bout the leadscrew I'm assuming rt hand ? is that correct? please advise, also on the very bottom of the round dial first 2 rows are "a" and "b" then "c" the "b" again and "a " again how does the machine recognize the different threads?
...

Hi Paul,

If you look at the dial at about 1 O'clock you'll see that the outer 3 rings have "STUD 48 | BOX 24"; the inner two rings have "STUD 24 | BOX 48". What that's telling you is that the outer 3 rings apply when 48-tooth gear is in the "stud" position and the 24-tooth gear is in the "box" or gearbox position, which is the bottom position. This refers to the change gears on the left side of the headstock and gearbox, under the drive covers. To get the thread pitches on the inner two rings, the gears are swapped. You can actually use the thread pitches on the center ring with the end gears in either position. If you have "STUD 24 | BOX 48", just set the left knob to A. So for 16TPI with gears on "STUD 48 | BOX 24", set the left knob to C; if the gears are "STUD 24 | BOX 48", set the knob to A.

Yes, the "right" thread position on the headstock feed/thread direction knob produces a right-hand thread.

Cal

 

[wpala]

Hi Cal

Thanks for the info I was hoping you gonna chime in, just one more stupid question where is a 24/48 stud box switch located? I know I have a open belt or back gear leaver where speed control is also I don't have any additional gears to change, I have seen the 24/48 quote on the dial I was wondering what is that referring to

Hi Paul,

If you look at the dial at about 1 O'clock you'll see that the outer 3 rings have "STUD 48 | BOX 24"; the inner two rings have "STUD 24 | BOX 48". What that's telling you is that the outer 3 rings apply when 48-tooth gear is in the "stud" position and the 24-tooth gear is in the "box" or gearbox position, which is the bottom position. This refers to the change gears on the left side of the headstock and gearbox, under the drive covers. To get the thread pitches on the inner two rings, the gears are swapped. You can actually use the thread pitches on the center ring with the end gears in either position. If you have "STUD 24 | BOX 48", just set the left knob to A. So for 16TPI with gears on "STUD 48 | BOX 24", set the left knob to C; if the gears are "STUD 24 | BOX 48", set the knob to A.

Yes, the "right" thread position on the headstock feed/thread direction knob produces a right-hand thread.

Cal

 

[Cal Haines]

Re: Changing round-dial 10EE end-gears

Hi Paul,

You have to actually interchange two of the end gears to get from one set of thread pitches to the other. Here's a diagram that shows the location of the "stud" and "box" gears:


You'll need to loosen the nuts on the studs for the two idler gears to get them to mesh with the new positions of the 24- and 48-tooth gears and you'll need to adjust the quadrant plate under idler-2 to get the two idler gears to mesh properly. There should be a little bit of clearance between each pair of gears, about the thickness of a cigarette paper. Put a light coat of way oil on the gear teeth while you're there.

Cal

 

[wpala]

Re: Changing round-dial 10EE end-gears

Love You man :man:
Big thank You

Paul

Hi Paul,

You have to actually interchange two of the end gears to get from one set of thread pitches to the other. Here's a diagram that shows the location of the "stud" and "box" gears:
View attachment 63922

You'll need to loosen the nuts on the studs for the two idler gears to get them to mesh with the new positions of the 24- and 48-tooth gears and you'll need to adjust the quadrant plate under idler-2 to get the two idler gears to mesh properly. There should be a little bit of clearance between each pair of gears, about the thickness of a cigarette paper. Put a light coat of way oil on the gear teeth while you're there.

Cal