Thickness of Parallels

[epanzella]

My set of parallels is 1/8" thick but is see they come in many thicknesses from super thin to 1/2". I can imagine a need for a thin parallel with thin stock but is there are there situations where parallels thicker than 1/8" would be required?

 

[MontanaLon]

Required? No, with the possible exception of very large work that wouldn't fit on a mill you could fit in a home workshop. Handy? Heck yes, it is a lot easier working with a parallel that is wide enough to keep it from tipping over as easy as the 1/8" parallels do. Down side is of course they are more expensive, more material and more work to get them parallel. But they sure are easy to work with compared to thinner ones. They do have downsides. A lot more area to get a chip between the parallel and work, so you have to be really sure to wipe them down when using them.

 

[epanzella]

Yeah I found out pretty quickly that 1/8 inch parallels fall over easily. It can be annoying when doing something that requires 3 hands. I have a supply of closed cell foam that comes in handy for parallel work. I cut a hunk 1/4 inch wider than I need and squash it when grabbing the part. If that's the only drawback to the skinny parallels I can live with it as I'm just a weekend warrior! Thanks for the response.

 

[benmychree]

I use a spring between thin parallels to keep them from falling over, also keeps chips from getting behind them; Brown & Sharpe made some more unusual parallels, Very thin parallels, maybe about 1/32" thick, and also Wavy parallels, also thin and perhaps 5/16" across the waves, spring tempered so they collapse in the vise when the part is clamped.
I prefer to use parallels of the wider sort if possible, I only go to the thinner varieties when working with thin parts. I have two pairs that I made as an apprentice that are sized so that the height difference is fairly small so that a pair of hold downs sit on the taller ones and the part on the lower ones, they are sized such that the part is near the top of an ordinary mill vise.

 

[RJSakowski]

I use the 1/8" parallels a lot. Tip over isn't a great problem for me. More of an issue is when I am working close to the edge with thru holes. I have to be careful that the tool doesn't hit the parallel and the parallel doesn't always sit tight to the chuck jaw. At times, I will use other parallels laid horizontally as spacers to keep the support parallels honest.

One thing to check is the 1/8" dimension. On my set (Enco), the thickness varies between .120" and .131".

 

[cbellanca]

I have found that any type of foam works well to hold parallels in place. When drilling close to the edge I move the parallel out f the way. In a pinch I have used some soft wood to hold them in place.

 

[darkzero]

I use 1/8" parallels the most too but I prefer to use 1/4" parallels anytime I can.

I have one of those spring loaded parallel separators that I got from Enco on sale but I rarely use it. I have only used it when I need to make multiples of something which is not that often.

I do keep steel strapping around & use that as a spring to hold parallels apart but most of the time I just squirt some way oil on the back of the parallels & that usually provides enough stiction to jaws, even for the dynamic jaw.

 

[projectnut]

My set of parallels is 1/8" thick but is see they come in many thicknesses from super thin to 1/2". I can imagine a need for a thin parallel with thin stock but is there are there situations where parallels thicker than 1/8" would be required?

I find I use 1/4" parallels more often than any other size. To me the size of the machine and the size of the part determines what size parallels to use. I have sets from 1/32" to 1" thick. The larger ones are used most often to block and square odd shaped parts on the mill table rather than in a vise. They can also be used to raise a part off the mill table to avoid hitting the table when boring or drilling. The 1/32" set are the least used. They are so thin you have to be extremely careful doing setups. The slightest uneven torque can bend or misshape them.

 

[mikey]

I have thin (1/32"), 1/8" thick and a Starrett 384 set. I use the really thin ones mainly when I need to drill close to the edge of a part. The 1/8" thick ones see the most work and are held in place with a piece of closed cell foam; keeps them in place and keeps chips out of my vise. The Starrett parallels are extremely useful because they are pairs in different sizes; you might want to check them out.

 

[Chewy]

I use 1/8 parallels for 90% of work in Kurt vise usually spaced with foam between them. Free and I have other uses for my money. Also sometimes use steel banding to make spring tension between them. Drop down a size and put a piece of flat aluminum on top narrower than work piece for through hole drilling. Remember to use depth stop!! You do need some other sizes of parallels to prevent hair loss. My next go to is HSS tool blanks. Most used is 3/8" & 1/2", 3 - 4" long. Great for setting precision angles on. Some catalogs even list them as parallels. I have all sizes from 3/16" to 5/8" and you can get really inventive stacking and blocking with them. After that I have 1/2" x 3/4" x 9" and standard 123 & 246 blocks. As above the bigger stuff is used directly on the table. Charles

PS. Nothing stops you from making a "special" set of parallels when you need them Feeler gauges and Zigzag papers work wonders in shimming. Part of the fun is making tools you don't have!