- Joined
- Oct 24, 2014
- Messages
- 208
This may be the last parting/cutoff tool I will ever have to buy.
Not elegant or complicated but it works.
I got a 4 in “plate joiner saw blade” from Harbor Freight for $10 bucks and a ¾-16 x 4in bolt and nut from a hardware store for another sawbuck. The .750 bolt fits my AXA QC tool post boring bar holder correctly, and I cut an .875 x .093 shoulder in the head of the bolt …. (needs to be slightly less than the thickness of whatever blade you use) The HF blade has 6 carbide cutters aprox .140 thick so that’s the width of the cut. I ground two of the carbide tips to have a flat cut, and one of those I thinned to the thickness of the blade, approx .110. I drilled and tapped an index pin hole in my boring bar tool holder (the only change to that) and drilled 6 index holes in the blade so it can’t turn when cutting. I did find this necessary because I tried a prototype without and under heavy load it would shift down. Of course that could be a plus because it will stop cutting if you go in too fast :>)) I can see that in a deep cut I might have a problem with chip blockage, but I can always grind clearance deep on one spot for that. This thing is SOLID. All that metal above and below the actual cut point does not flex, particularly from side to side as I have seen in all other cutoff/parting tools . It seems to be flexing down the entire cross/compound on my Chinese lathe when I push it too much.. There are other blades available everywhere that could be thinner and ?better? suited to this. Most of them have many more teeth some of which would probably need to be ground off to be suitable. I got this idea from another? Forum somewhere where the guy ground part of a blade to fit his cutoff blade holder.
Not elegant or complicated but it works.
I got a 4 in “plate joiner saw blade” from Harbor Freight for $10 bucks and a ¾-16 x 4in bolt and nut from a hardware store for another sawbuck. The .750 bolt fits my AXA QC tool post boring bar holder correctly, and I cut an .875 x .093 shoulder in the head of the bolt …. (needs to be slightly less than the thickness of whatever blade you use) The HF blade has 6 carbide cutters aprox .140 thick so that’s the width of the cut. I ground two of the carbide tips to have a flat cut, and one of those I thinned to the thickness of the blade, approx .110. I drilled and tapped an index pin hole in my boring bar tool holder (the only change to that) and drilled 6 index holes in the blade so it can’t turn when cutting. I did find this necessary because I tried a prototype without and under heavy load it would shift down. Of course that could be a plus because it will stop cutting if you go in too fast :>)) I can see that in a deep cut I might have a problem with chip blockage, but I can always grind clearance deep on one spot for that. This thing is SOLID. All that metal above and below the actual cut point does not flex, particularly from side to side as I have seen in all other cutoff/parting tools . It seems to be flexing down the entire cross/compound on my Chinese lathe when I push it too much.. There are other blades available everywhere that could be thinner and ?better? suited to this. Most of them have many more teeth some of which would probably need to be ground off to be suitable. I got this idea from another? Forum somewhere where the guy ground part of a blade to fit his cutoff blade holder.
