The Infamous what Mill should I get

[EVMiller]

932 pics

I would highly recommend pulling the x/y gibs and remove the table and clean and lube everything. I took the entire x/y assembly apart (gibs, table, screws) so I could clean and lube everything. I did not take the z axis apart, just wiped and oiled the exposed portions of the dovetails, and ran the head up/down to clean and lube behind the head.

Ill get a vid of it running later today. Its extremely quiet! gotta go pick the kids up from school

 

[lSherlockl]

yeah I'm still processing how to transport it down into my basement, its a bit more "big" in person and taking exact measurements on it makes it a interesting trick.

I was sort of thinking of taking it apart into head, column, base transit each on their own via dolly (would also let me clean and re-lube check and stone any surfaces that may have burs etc) however there is a heck of a lot of wires between the control box, and the back-cabinet and the motor and back cabinet. and the back cabinet is screwed to the column underneath the raised board that all the controllers etc are mounted to.

thinking its a case of pulling the table (to cut down the width) and then lowering the head all the way it can go and embrace the ancient Egyptians and just use a sled and a ramp down the stairs for the main assembly. Obviously with some tethers etc.

But as i mentioned have some time to ponder this one, out of curiosity what are you doing for a stand if I may ask? and the other think i looked at and was pondering was the small little packed of cap head screws and the sort of stepped washers that was in the table under the oil paper was for. It wasn't clicking looking around the machine


EDIT: oh and i was scrolling thru the documentation I didn't see the amperage on the unit (other than the motor itself but not sure if the VFD consumes more or if the stated 8 amp on the motor was constant or peak. just figuring what plug and wire i need run I know its 220v single phase circuit so nothing difficult.

 

[davidpbest]

yeah I'm still processing how to transport it down into my basement, its a bit more "big" in person and taking exact measurements on it makes it a interesting trick.

I was sort of thinking of taking it apart into head, column, base transit each on their own via dolly (would also let me clean and re-lube check and stone any surfaces that may have burs etc) however there is a heck of a lot of wires between the control box, and the back-cabinet and the motor and back cabinet. and the back cabinet is screwed to the column underneath the raised board that all the controllers etc are mounted to.

If you do break the connection between the base and column, you will need to re-tram the column. You should check the tram either way. This thread goes into the process in some detail. It's applicable to any of the square-column benchtop mills:

Tramming my PM-833TV

All of my experience in the past was on full size Bridgeport mills. I'm discovering that these column bed type mills are a different animal as far as tramming goes. I've done some research but would like to hear from others the techniques they use. Here is what my gut and a little research...

www.hobby-machinist.com

 

[EVMiller]

I was sort of thinking of taking it apart into head, column, base transit each on their own via dolly (would also let me clean and re-lube check and stone any surfaces that may have burs etc)

One piece at a time on an appliance dolly is how I did it. I was able to get it down into the basement and reassembled by myself. Slow process but it wasn't terribly difficult. Don't be alarmed when large chunks of paint and body filler fall off during disassembly

there is a heck of a lot of wires between the control box, and the back-cabinet and the motor and back cabinet. and the back cabinet is screwed to the column underneath the raised board that all the controllers etc are mounted to.

Yea.. getting the cabinet off and back on again was a major pain..

But as i mentioned have some time to ponder this one, out of curiosity what are you doing for a stand if I may ask?

I made a temporary one from scrap 4x4s and plywood. I'll weld something up after I figure out a comfortable working height. No solid plans on a stand for now

 

[Larry$]

When I bought my PM 940 about 7 yrs ago, I knew nothing. Still don't know much. My only suggestion - whatever you buy, get the Z axis power. Your shoulder will thank you

About Z-axis: Each time you change between a collet for an end mill and the drill chuck or even worse a boring head, you will need to move the Z a lot. I've got a knee mill and the knee is heavy. After too much cranking I put a Z feed on it, love it. That said you can just mount a 1/2" drill motor and have it do the heavy lifting. Drawback is the loss of fine movement a crank gives. Z feeds retain the crank but they stick out a lot. I have an X feed and like it, but you can get along w/o. The thing I run out of the most is Z travel. Add up the things that take Z space: Vice, boring head, boring bar, work piece, feed distance. Some of these can be worked around but all work arounds take time. Adding a HV rotary table also eats Z rapidly. As often as I move Z travel, I'd avoid a round column. Guys with them learn to plan ahead. A DRO for sure, but again not required but really nice.