The Giant Binocular

[savarin]

Obviously these long control rods will have to be separable (is that a word?} at the join of the two halves of the bino.
So I came up with this idea. This is a proof of concept and also to check on the orders of work as I need 8 of them.
The end of each rod will have a tang on one and a slot on the other, the stainless threaded part will be split along the taper into 4 (once I make a slitting saw arbor) the brass part has an internal taper to squeeze the split taper onto the other shaft and hopefully hold it tight.


the flange of the stainless part will have a grub screw to hold it tight to the rod.



After checking this out I think I will make the stainless part longer to allow a knurled section large enough to hold and twist giving a bit more torque to tighten them together. They should only need a half turn to lock.
The tongue and groove join meets in the centre of the stainless part so they cannot part sideways.
The top half of the rod will be spring loaded so it retracts far enough that the end with the tongue is higher than the base of the top tubes so hopefully they wont be damaged when the top half is placed on the ground.
All this so there is less chance of loosing bits in the dark.

 

[woodchucker]

Obviously these long control rods will have to be separable (is that a word?} at the join of the two halves of the bino.
So I came up with this idea. This is a proof of concept and also to check on the orders of work as I need 8 of them.
The end of each rod will have a tang on one and a slot on the other, the stainless threaded part will be split along the taper into 4 (once I make a slitting saw arbor) the brass part has an internal taper to squeeze the split taper onto the other shaft and hopefully hold it tight.
View attachment 414423

the flange of the stainless part will have a grub screw to hold it tight to the rod.

View attachment 414424

After checking this out I think I will make the stainless part longer to allow a knurled section large enough to hold and twist giving a bit more torque to tighten them together. They should only need a half turn to lock.
The tongue and groove join meets in the centre of the stainless part so they cannot part sideways.
The top half of the rod will be spring loaded so it retracts far enough that the end with the tongue is higher than the base of the top tubes so hopefully they wont be damaged when the top half is placed on the ground.
All this so there is less chance of loosing bits in the dark.

Beautiful workmanship and concept.

 

[savarin]

Thanks Jeff, much appreciated.

 

[Firstram]

Always glad to see updated, keep them coming!!!

 

[Just for fun]

Thanks for the update. Good job, it looks like it's going to work very well.

 

[savarin]

The extended knurled stainless part works much better particularly with the slits going into the threaded part. Finger tight is sufficient to make a rigid join.

 

[savarin]

Finished making these today, all the rod connectors and 10 rod stops.
I dislike repetitive jobs so these took a bit of time.


Heres where they will fit joining the top and bottom rods together, note the springs and the rod stop, when the joiner is released the spring retracts the top rod from the bottom rod and holds it in the retracted position.


Following it down to the right angle gear box that moves the mirror cell.


and upwards where it passes through the back plate


and joins the control knob. I think the cool bit is the control rod and knob slide foreward when the spring retracts the assembly.
The large black knob controls the rotation of the top cages altering the eye piece separation for different sized heads


I'm still awaiting on the springs and M3x3 grub screws so I can get all the rods sorted.

 

[thomas s]

Nice job

 

[FOMOGO]

Great work. Kinda like making linkage for six deuces. Mike

 

[savarin]

Where on earth does the time go.
After I finished the ring roller I used it to make 2 stainless rings 40mm wide the same dia as the mirrors with 2 12X12 aluminium rings inside, (this was a nightmare to get perfectly circular) on top of the aluminium ring is a 24mm x 12mm very firm rubber ring that the mirror will sit upon.

I am now starting to get the mirror work together.
First job was to face the plaster tool.
I used a small sharp chisel on the mirror grinding/polishing machine dragged across the top.

Its now exactly the same thickness all the way across.
This will be hollowed out at a radius of curvature of around 42.25", this will then have a heap of steel dumps epoxied to it and re ground to grind the backs of the mirrors to an identical ROC. I'm using a steel tool for this so wear will be minimal ensuring the two backs are identical.
Next job is to turn down the dia to get it to a perfect circle.