Tail stock and tapers and general PM1236 question

ShawnR

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Warning, ....I am about to show how little I know...Flustered

When I first received my PM1236 last April, I noted that the tail stock tapers had the flanges but this caused them to reduce the amount of quill travel. Not knowing what they added to the taper function, I cut them off, including the one for the drill chuck that I had. As long as I have had lathes, I have learned to not be too aggressive with drilling as it might cause the taper to spin in the tail stock quill. But then watching a video recently, a comment was made that the flange prevents the tailstock mounted drill chuck from spinning....DOH! So figuring a new one is a week away with shipping probably, I figured I would weld a new one on. Not a big deal but then installing it, I found it does nothing to prevent the chuck from spinning, should it become loose.

So is the PM1236 setup to accommodate a tanged MT3? It came with them but when I looked into the taper hole, I saw no place for it to lock into, and my new modified one did not lock or catch when I put it in lightly so as not to engage the taper. Or is it still a matter of light drilling operations when using the tail stock? I looked at the parts diagram but it did not give me any more info.

A second question, does this lathe normally come with a wrench to remove the chucks? The 3 jaw wrench fits but is too short as is the 4 jaw one, albeit longer. They can work. I ended up using a ratchet extension. Someone said a good project and this is true so no big deal but wondering what you all have done. Did you make a "chuck change tool" or do you just use a ratchet extension?

Please don't take these as complaints. I am loving the lathe, to the point of maybe buying a mill from PM. I am just wondering what others are doing, and, of course, suggestions on the drill chuck spinning in the tail stock when no tang is present.

Thanks
Shawn
 
A tang is made to facilitate removal of drills from a spindle, not to drive the tool, having said that, it is possible to drill and ream two holes in the quill to capture the tang, using two dowel pins to form the tang slot.
 
I don‘t often use this for taking the chuck on/off the spindle, but it does work, and is especially convenient for speeding up big movements in or reversing the chuck jaws.

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Thanks guys. So it is just the taper that is holding the drill chuck from spinning? Admittedly, with my first lathe, I often spun the arbor but as I learned more, ie take lighter cuts and it was only an MT2 taper. It very seldom happens anymore. But I thought I was missing something when I heard that point in the video saying that that is what the tang is for.

Yes David, that is what I have been using, although without the pneumatics. I was wondering if a wrench was supposed to be shipped with the lathe.

Thanks
 
If you have spun a drill in the morse taper then it might be buggered up. If there are burrs or rough spots the taper won't fit tight.
How are you seating the drill bit in the tailstock? I have seen on u tube a guy tap the end with a lead hammer, seating it.
Joe
 
Here is a trick we did yesterday.

Needed to cut a 3.5 diameter hole in 1.25 thick round plate.

Plate in 4 jaw, used hole saw without arbor in drill chuck in tail stock.

Speed kills so running about 60 rpm, VFD is good.

Your drill chuck key should have round rod that you use to turn it.

This should fit the hole the key spindle fits.

Place carriage where your tool post will allow the chuck key tht is inserted in the hole to rest on tool post.

With a wood block tap on the face ofthe drill chuck with jaws all the way open so you only tap the chuck body.

This seats the taper.

If heavy drilling then do as above.

Will post photos after we recover them, card crashed...

Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk
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I looked at the taper yesterday. Looks ok. As to seating it, I just push it in firmly. No tapping. I cut a 3/4" -2.5" deep hole yesterday into round stock and had no problem. I am probably applying proper speeds and patience a little more these days, and stepping up in drill sizes more slowly.

But I like the idea of bracing the chuck against the tool post. Good tip. Thanks!
 
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