Table saw problem

[T Bredehoft]

As most of you know, I moved to Holland a couple of years ago and set up a small wood shop, hobby level. Among tools I purchased a new HBM 10" table saw.

It's been OK, nothing to write home about, does the job. However, recently it has been getting harder to crank the blade up. Down no problem, almost spin the handle. Up, on the other hand... well it got to taking two hands. I looked inside and found a pair of nylon bevel gears supported on one end only (and not really secure) turning a small, possibly 10 mm screw for raising and lowering the table. I guessed it had dust on it ( can't really see anything under there) and eventually decided that oil would help, if only until it got gummy. It is now one hand operable, but won't spin, as it will in lowering the blade.

Problem: If I get another saw, will I have the same problem? and how can I tell. I was discussing this with my partner and she suggested asking you guys (and gals) if there was information out there on this problem.

So here we go...

Is there a cure? perhaps a different lubricant (but how to apply it?)

is there a saw recommended that doesn't have this problem (my 50 year old Sears saw (left in Ohio) didn't have the problem)

Other suggestions?

 

[DavidR8]

I've used Dri-cote on my saw.
Any lubricant that doesn't dry is a recipe for clogged up gears etc.
But if the gears are nylon, that's effectively self lubricating. I'd be looking for some blockage that is preventing raising the blade.

 

[RJSakowski]

My Grizzly 10" hybrid table saw doesn't have a problem. There is a difference between up vs down but it is still easily one hand. The saw uses a crank driven worm which is driving a sector gear.

 

[GeneT45]

I suspect that none of the cabinet maker's saws (Jet, Rockwell/Delta Unisaw, sawstop, Powermatic, and their knockoffs) wouldn't have this problem. I have no idea what's available in Holland, though. In the US I'd recommend looking for an old Craftsman 10" contractor's saw, which is a great machine (once you replace the fence).

GsT

 

[extropic]

Nylon bevel gears on a 10mm shaft suggests 'built to a price point' to me. Ask Santa for an upgrade.
I just looked at the HBM web site and although they offer translation into 6 or 8 languages, English isn't among them.
Good luck.

 

[markba633csi]

I would use a silicone lube- Permatex has one, don't know what's available there

 

[Jon_G]

New here but I have an old (probably 1950s and that’s a guess) Craftsman 10 inch with cast top and haven’t had that sort of problem.

 

[whitmore]

Sawdust works its way in. Probably your screw lube and some wood fiber are jamming
and stressing the gears; disassemble and clean (brass bristle brush is good if you have one).

Oil is not what I'd use; maybe a bit of paraffin wax, because the oil might swell
sawdust, and/or trap it. I've been known to heat screws and dip them in
a can of wax, or rub them with a waxed rag.

 

[borges1]

i've used saws exactly like this for more hours of my life than anyone should. silicone lube helps some - for a while. try not to get it on the plastic bevel gears, but only on the polished columns and adjustment screw. The Gears fail/strip easily but can be replaced. But i've actually had more than one of this design bend other components enough (when cranking hard to get the blade up) to make the up function almost impossible even cleaned, lubed and praying. down does always seem to work. its some design flaw in the castings/columns. If you can place even a cheap cast iron contractor saw it will not have this issue and be a big upgrade. If you really need to keep using it clean it all out as best you can, lube the columns and lead screws, look for casting cracks and column/screw flex. If anything is damaged i did not find it cost effective to repair. I still have one of these saws for very rare on site use (mostly use a track saw now for that) and for rough ripping nasty stuff i don't want to send through my better saws.

 

[T Bredehoft]

Jon, your Craftsman is what I left in Ohio. I bought it used in (probably) 1965, wish I'd been able to ship it...I lost parts of a few fingers on it, but I'd still rather have it than what I have. (I replaced the cutout around the blade with hardwood, lots easier at blade changing time. )

David (Any lubricant that doesn't dry is a recipe for clogged up gears etc.) Its the screw that raises/lowers the motor/blade that's the problem. . The gears are floppy, but not lubed.

The way the saw is built, I'll have to take it off the stand and lay it on it's side to get the oil off and replace it with something else. I'll check out whatever is offered before I replace the saw, but I'm afraid that's what I'll be doing.

Do any of our European members have a recommendation for a replacement?