Stock PM1030V tool post adjustment not always low enough

[Clif123]

This may be a general question but hopefully some other PM1030V (or possibly PM1022V) users have found a good solution to this problem. I've noticed that most of my AXA tool posts on the stock PM1030V QCTP sit very low on the adjustment.

I purchased extra tool holders from various places and there are some slight variations in bottom thickness. The Aloris tool post shown is touching bottom and could stand to go a little lower to be on center.

I'm trying to find a good solution to this without hacking up my tool holders. Mowing off some material on one of the generic tool holders is OK but the Aloris cut-off holder is expensive and that isn't happening. I know that some people remove the adjustable base and replace it with something more solid and in my case slightly thinner but it is nice for many operations. Any good solutions would be greatly appreciated!

 

[WobblyHand]

Mowing off some material on one of the generic tool holders is OK but the Aloris cut-off holder is expensive and that isn't happening.

You either have to use smaller tooling, which will bring up the tool holder from the compound, or machine the bottom of the tool holder. I had to machine the bottom of my Aloris AXA-8 threading tool to get the cutting tool on center line. And yeah, it's an expensive tool, but it wouldn't work otherwise. So you have a choice of selling it, or modifying it. Or looking at the tool holder and being angry. The last choice will not solve the problem.

I chose to modify mine. I had to machine off 0.050" off the bottom to get it to work. I have 0.003" clearance from hitting the compound, but the threading tool works great now. Remember, the tool holder is only a tool. If it doesn't work for you, then why not modify it, if you are going to keep it?

I also had to modify a slitting saw arbor - because it wasn't made correctly. Got a refund and got another, and it was made wrong as well. At that point, I had nothing to lose and just modified it. Works fine. Got to make the mods and get on with life!

 

[Clif123]

You either have to use smaller tooling, which will bring up the tool holder from the compound, or machine the bottom of the tool holder. I had to machine the bottom of my Aloris AXA-8 threading tool to get the cutting tool on center line. And yeah, it's an expensive tool, but it wouldn't work otherwise. So you have a choice of selling it, or modifying it. Or looking at the tool holder and being angry. The last choice will not solve the problem.

I chose to modify mine. I had to machine off 0.050" off the bottom to get it to work. I have 0.003" clearance from hitting the compound, but the threading tool works great now. Remember, the tool holder is only a tool. If it doesn't work for you, then why not modify it, if you are going to keep it?

I also had to modify a slitting saw arbor - because it wasn't made correctly. Got a refund and got another, and it was made wrong as well. At that point, I had nothing to lose and just modified it. Works fine. Got to make the mods and get on with life!

You are probably right. I just need to hold my nose and do it. I think it is always good to check this forum when there may be some better solutions since many of you have been on this journey long ago.

 

[WobblyHand]

You are probably right. I just need to hold my nose and do it. I think it is always good to check this forum when there may be some better solutions since many of you have been on this journey long ago.

Just like you, I was really ****** to have to do it. You'd think after spending all that money you wouldn't have to modify it. But after being told (what I basically told you), I rethought things. Did I want to be ****** off and stuck, or did I want to just get on with things.

It's not hard to machine off the bottom. Took me a couple of minutes and it was done. And then I could use the tool holder.

 

[ivel03]

It also matters what size tools you put in them. Even though the AXA tool holders will take up to a 1/2" tool i usually use 3/8" tools in mine to get it on center line. I've found the tool holders to be fairly soft and cut easily with the mill; if you don't have a mill i'm sure you could use a belt sander or a file. Grinding down the holders are worth it as a larger tool is more rigid and if it saves you from re-purchasing all of your tooling that's double good!

 

[erikmannie]

I have used my PM-1030V w/AXA toolpost + import tool holders a lot with mostly 1/2” tooling, & I have not yet encountered this issue, although it has come very close to the end of the adjustment range as I was getting the tool to center height.

I make it a practice to use the largest sized shank (or tool bit) that the tool holder can hold, this for purposes of rigidity.

 

[WobblyHand]

It seems some manufacturers cheat on the AXA dimensions. In my case it was Grizzly. They designed the compound to spindle axis dimensions to be less than an Aloris tool holder would be. There apparently are suppliers that manufacturer cheaper stubbier tool holders. It may have been one of their contract manufacturers doing this, or a lot of machines were made this way. I know another HM member whose identical lathe's center line is about 0.050" higher. All I know is my Aloris AXA-8 couldn't be set to centerline without hitting the compound. It was too tall.

Without modifying the lathe itself, which can be a can of worms for beginners, the simplest solution is to use 3/8" tooling or shaving off the bottom surface of the tool holder. If you do shave the bottom, you can use 1/2" tooling again. For the AXA-8 HSS threading tool I had the choice of grinding the cutter bit lower and parallel to it's original plane, or cutting the bottom surface. Cutting the bottom means I can use the existing HSS cutter blades as is. All other choices meant modifying all my blades I was unhappy with the only viable choice, but just did it. In the end the only thing harmed was perhaps resale value of the AXA-8. It now works great for me. It was the right choice for me to modify the tool holder. Resale value of used tooling in the far future isn't more important than being able to use the tooling here and now, at least for me.

 

[Christianstark]

Instead of machining multiple tool holders, couldn't you modify the post and machine a piece that fixes to the bottom of the post, thus raising the height of all holders affixed to it?

 

[WobblyHand]

Instead of machining multiple tool holders, couldn't you modify the post and machine a piece that fixes to the bottom of the post, thus raising the height of all holders affixed to it?

No, it isn't the post itself. The compound (in my case for sure) is too high. One can't lower the tool holder any more than the compound. If the tool holder is too high, you need to lower it.

The fix is to modify the occasional offending tool holder, or to machine the compound lower. For me, most of my tooling (off-shore mostly) fit fine. It was the Aloris AXA-8 that was too tall for my compound. So I cut it down. For me, it was easier to just machine the tool holder. If I had to do a lot of them, I'd reconsider doing the compound.

Starting out, most (beginners) people are not willing to machine or modify parts on their lathes. As you get more experience, that reluctance subsides. At the time, I didn't want to deal with machining the compound. I reasoned that the bottom surface of the tool holder is a non critical surface, that didn't need to be super flat or even parallel to anything, and could be functional even if a hack job was done. I didn't do a hack job, and it turned out fine, despite myself.

 

[Christianstark]

No, it isn't the post itself. The compound (in my case for sure) is too high. One can't lower the tool holder any more than the compound. If the tool holder is too high, you need to lower it.

The fix is to modify the occasional offending tool holder, or to machine the compound lower. For me, most of my tooling (off-shore mostly) fit fine. It was the Aloris AXA-8 that was too tall for my compound. So I cut it down. For me, it was easier to just machine the tool holder. If I had to do a lot of them, I'd reconsider doing the compound.

Starting out, most (beginners) people are not willing to machine or modify parts on their lathes. As you get more experience, that reluctance subsides. At the time, I didn't want to deal with machining the compound. I reasoned that the bottom surface of the tool holder is a non critical surface, that didn't need to be super flat or even parallel to anything, and could be functional even if a hack job was done. I didn't do a hack job, and it turned out fine, despite myself.

Yeah. I was thinking about that completely Bass Ackwards. LOL!