Should I or shouldn't I

mofosheee

Registered
Registered
Joined
Nov 13, 2013
Messages
139
I have a motor cycle rotor on a tapered shaft that was a bish to remove due to 45 years of corrosion.
Should I or shouldn't I apply a light film anti-seize to the shaft when assembling?
Thanks!
 
I have a motor cycle rotor on a tapered shaft that was a bish to remove due to 45 years of corrosion.

if the corrosion is in the area where THAT rotor seats on THAT shaft... They're kinda done. The proper fix would be to take them both back until they could seat on clean metal, but that's gonna start changing dimensions....

Or, if they're rusty OUTSIDE of the exact spot where the proper interference occurs- Take that back and it should oughtta go back together just fine.

Should I or shouldn't I apply a light film anti-seize to the shaft when assembling?
Thanks!

No. That's going to change "everything" about the joint. It's gonna facilitate pushing too far, which is going to be required to get the clamp load, and you're gonna have soft metals (presumably aluminum) inside of the joint, which wants to be direct, one part against the other. Service manuals rule, but I'm 98 percent sure that wants a clean, dry joint. If it does want something, finsruskw is on it, it "probably" wants chalk. That was more common when these type of joints were more common, but it wasn't that common. Most of that type of joint was stuffed together clean (clean clean) and dry.
 
Great answers............ Going together clean and dry. Tapers need friction and lubricants reduce friction.
 
The old Chrysler manuals with the tapered shaft axles said to use chalk on the taper before re-assembly.
Makes sense: I was taught to use soapstone on drill chuck tapers to prevent seizing.
 
Looking at it from another perspective: are you going to be around 45 years from now to worry about it? ;)
 
If there is no key and it's just taper then dry- but if there is a key then I would lube it or anti-seize it
 
Back
Top