Should I get a surface grinder?

Janderso said:
Just for kicks I ground both sides of a piece of hardened D2. (Thanks Steve)
I then checked it on my surface plate and came up with some strange measurements.
So, I checked some thickness (parallel) comparisons in 4 places.
The largest discrepancy was .0003".
Heck, if you ever needed to make something flat a SG is the way to go.
.0003" is a bit more than I would have guessed.
A freshly dressed wheel, maybe the chuck needs to be dusted? Maybe the table?
But for a 60+ year old machine, It's not so bad.
Click to expand...
Not to mention a Beautiful finish to boot
 
You sum of beaches... arghhh... did something stupid, again! Bought it without looking at it... 900.00

Father passed away and son is selling all his machines...

Boyar Schultz 612 Surface Grinder

Boyar Schultz 612 Surface Grinder.jpeg


And only God knows what else I will take with me when I get to that garage... good grief...
 
wachuko said:
You sum of beaches... arghhh... did something stupid, again! Bought it without looking at it... 900.00

Father passed away and son is selling all his machines...

Boyar Schultz 612 Surface Grinder

View attachment 510688

And only God knows what else I will take with me when I get to that garage... good grief...
Click to expand...
Not a bad looking machine at all. She will clean up nice
 
Dusting the chuck may solve your problem. However, before I dd it I would be sure the chuck is properly secured to the table. It doesn't need to be torqued down hard, rather just enough tension to hold the chuck in place. If you tighten it down too tight it's likely it will warp over time. In most places it wouldn't be distinguishable, but when you're looking for flatness in the 1/10ths it will make a difference.

When I first got my machine, I noticed the chuck wasn't totally flat. I removed it, cleaned and stoned the table and the underside of the chuck and remounted it. I put a known thickness coupon in each corner and one in the middle and did some grinding. I only took off a couple tenths per pass and only moved over a quarter of an inch or so with each pass. When I was finished it was less than .0001 side to side and end to end.

It's one of those mind-numbing jobs to continue to pass over the coupons until they've totally sparked out. I wouldn't want to do it on a regualr basis, but it was worth the time I spent.
 
Pevehouse said:
Not a bad looking machine at all. She will clean up nice
Click to expand...
It is 4 hours drive to pick it up... Fort Myers... I will take photos of what is in there... I know there are two small lathes, a Bridgeport mill, Horizontal mill that I could not figure out the brand, Craftsman lathe, Atlas lathe, several drill presses... one sec. Let me download the photos and share...
 
Here you go...

BP-0.jpg

BP-1.jpg

BP-2.jpg
BP-3.jpg
BP-4.jpg

BP-5.jpg

BP-6.jpg


This is the one that I bought...

BP-7.jpg



And there are lot of boxes and tools that I could not make out from the photos... will have to wait until I get there.
 
projectnut said:
Dusting the chuck may solve your problem. However, before I dd it I would be sure the chuck is properly secured to the table. It doesn't need to be torqued down hard, rather just enough tension to hold the chuck in place. If you tighten it down too tight it's likely it will warp over time. In most places it wouldn't be distinguishable, but when you're looking for flatness in the 1/10ths it will make a difference.

When I first got my machine, I noticed the chuck wasn't totally flat. I removed it, cleaned and stoned the table and the underside of the chuck and remounted it. I put a known thickness coupon in each corner and one in the middle and did some grinding. I only took off a couple tenths per pass and only moved over a quarter of an inch or so with each pass. When I was finished it was less than .0001 side to side and end to end.

It's one of those mind-numbing jobs to continue to pass over the coupons until they've totally sparked out. I wouldn't want to do it on a regualr basis, but it was worth the time I spent.
Click to expand...
I was getting quite a bit of wheel hop affect so I changed wheels after the first rough grind I installed a fine grain wheel.
The actual wheel hop affect was measured using my home made surface gauge. I picked up 0001-2". That's more than I would have thought.
I checked the spindle with a tenths indicator and noticed a .001" movement up and down.
So I che3cked the bearing adjustment. Got a slight turn out of the locking hub.
Rech3ecked, now I am back to comfortable .0003-4"
I bet the wheel hop affect is better.
I replaced the bearings myself. I know right!
But, Richard King advised me along the way. It wasn't too bad.
 

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