Shape of gib adjusting screws

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AndySomogyi

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Getting ready for the final fitting in this mill, and thinking about what’s the best shape of the gib adjusting screws on the gib.

I know I need to shave away the aluminum on the back of the gib, and make the lock screw directly contact the iron gib.

But not sure if I should make a larger slot on the gib aluminum backing, or maybe dog-point the gib screw and only have the core screw bit contact.
 

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All my gib screws are dog point. Makes sense as it wont foul the threads and mushroom the end and make it so you can’t remove screw. All my gibs have the slot for the screw cut at 90 of screw.
 
If I were you I would do what Bridgeport does and put a ground angle stud behind the gibs screw. A lock screw plunger , On the H&W site the drawing of the machine parts and photo's show them for the gib lock plunger. Part number 21 and 27 - drawing and then scroll down to see a picture. https://www.machinerypartsdepot.com/store/1478157/page/549847

That is probably the best design. However the BP saddle is thick enough, looks like about 2” or so to accommodate about 1” of screw thread and have a nice bored hole for the plunger / piston to go into.

My saddle is only about 1” thick and the screw rests directly on the gib, there isn’t any additional depth to allow a plunger.

Probably the best I could do is something like a swivel foot tappet like the Porsche flat-6 uses. But I’d have to machine the ends of the adjuster screws to accept a swivel foot, and somehow peen it on the adjuster screw.

My Clausing lathe had dog pointed gib screws that, while not as good as the BP plunger is certainly better that the current edge of screw thread digging into gib approach.

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