Shaft Material?

K

Kroll

Active User
H-M Supporter Gold Member
Guys I need to make another shaft but wanted to ask about material before I jump in.Looking at McMaster I pick out 1144 which is what my other shaft is made out of but now I like to know if something else would be a better fit such as W1 or 01.McMaster saying that the W1 is machinable and that 01 is little harder and precise.What I like to do is purchase 3' rods so that I can have little stock for future projects.I would say that for future projects I would have to turn the OD,drill/tap,cut key slot,and maybe even try to cut a thread.So out of the three material 1144,W1,01 would all three work,or is there one that's better than the others?Guys these projects are just for repairing small lathes or maybe my 14" bandsaws etc nothing on level of doing what a machine shop would do just a hobby projects.
 
If your not going to harden I would stick with 1144,easier to machine. Also price may be a consideration, i.e. O-1 at a super good price.
 
I too would stick with 1144, particularly if the shaft might be subjected to fatigue (cyclical) loading.
 
Fantastic guys 1144 it is thanks,didn't know if needed something weird would be better choice.1144 makes small chips
 
And, 0-1 is not particularly nice to machine. W-1 is maybe the next choice, but 1144 or "Stressproof" is the very best for such as leadscrews or shafts with full length keyways, as it does not bow or distort when large cross sections are machined away, but it is NOT good for shafts with high torsional loads, it can and will crack; I made a steering arm shaft for a sprint car, and it "lasted quick".
 
benmychree said:
1144 or "Stressproof" is the very best for such as leadscrews or shafts with full length keyways, as it does not bow or distort when large cross sections are machined away, but it is NOT good for shafts with high torsional loads, it can and will crack
Click to expand...

How would that apply to, say, an arbor for the cutter on a small horizontal mill (e.g. Atlas, which always seem to be short of arbors)? Would a heavy cut cause sufficient torsion to crack the arbor, or is it unlikely because the bearings would fail first?
 
I would think in that case the cross section of the arbor would be large enough it wouldn't crack
 
markba633csi said:
I would think in that case the cross section of the arbor would be large enough it wouldn't crack
Click to expand...
Yeah, and the twist would start in the center(ish) of the arbor, not like the case of a steering arm where the shaft is twisted along its entire length. I'll file that away in case I need to make a new Atlas arbor.
 
I agree with the suggestions given so far, but just wanted to add. I keep a small supply of cold roll and hot roll (1018, 1020) on hand for my general use for hobby projects. It's not the best machining stuff around, but is fairly inexpensive and good for general purpose. But, if I was to spend a lot of time making a precision lead screw or something of that nature I would use a different/better suited material.

Stress proof is quite popular, but I like 4140 for good wear characteristics and mechanical strength. I'm sure there are better suited material out there, but I use the ones I have a history with.

In the end, I usually just use whatever I have laying around. :confused: Maybe not the best choice, but it's the truth...

Ted
 
I'm with Ted, most of the stuff I make isn't mission-critical and if it breaks or wears fast no deaths will result, so I use inexpensive steel mostly.
I found some steel 10mm floor tom legs from my brother's old Japanese drum set; some nice cutting steel, strong and a bit springy. Threaded beautifully
 
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