Self Propelled Moving Cart

[StudioMachinist]

I like the idea of being at the load with the controls.
I also like the idea of the reinforcement the winch bracket gives to the wooden structure.
Did I ever mention I HATE BATTERIES.
Probably one of those deep rooted childhood traumas!

It's a shame too because the DC winches are cheaper, more powerful, and more compact.

 

[Jake M]

With work I've not had a lot of time to work on my lathe stand, but with a one day off I was able to almost finish my solution to moving my PM-1130 lathe from my garage, down through my uneven yard, into the sliding glass doors leading into my basement. This will be even more useful when the day comes I need to move my machines up the hill.

It's very simple:
- 2x 3/4" 2x4' plywood, glued together
- 8" pneumatic HF castors (I believe rated at 285 LBS each)
- 1500 LBS AC winch

Basically I will load the cart, rig it to a tree near where I want it to go, and winch away. A rigging point on the rear of the cart will attach a haul back/tag line run through a snatch block to control the speed on steep areas.

I will also be making "out riggers" out of 2x4s and smaller castors to prevent the cart from rolling.

Would have liked to use smaller castors to lower the center of gravity but it gives me clearance for my shop crane to roll under.

I like that idea. I've got one issue with it that you should consider. The way you've placed the winch underneath, right in the center there- If you're going down hills it's gonna get squirrey. No matter what way you send it down a hill. if it gets half a whisker off straight with the pull, physics is gonna make it want to go ALL the way that direction. The ideal solution would be to place the winch at the leading edge (Traling edge, if you're letting it down hill?). A very valid solution would be to leave the winch where it is, and put a cable guide/fairlead centered on whatever edge the cable will exit the "cart" from. You "might" be far enough from the end to where you could just use an eye bolt.... Or I'm not sure if the fairlead on the winch is removable or not, but if it is, if you slid that to the (Front? Back?) of the cart, you wouldn't need one at the winch any more anyhow.

I bet that'll work well though. Obviously center of gravity issues, and mass times velocity squared issues need to be respected (Including that high center of gravity shifting rapidly on uneven terrain...). but it sounds like you're aware of that aspect anyhow. I think it'll be great for getting stuff downstairs. I can't envision it working well at all for moving stuff back up one day. My bet is that the instant you get your machine tools into the basement that cart is going to stop working, because you're gonna realize you've got a 120 volt winch, and that bugger is gonna be hanging from the ceiling......

 

[StudioMachinist]

I like that idea. I've got one issue with it that you should consider. The way you've placed the winch underneath, right in the center there- If you're going down hills it's gonna get squirrey. No matter what way you send it down a hill. if it gets half a whisker off straight with the pull, physics is gonna make it want to go ALL the way that direction. The ideal solution would be to place the winch at the leading edge (Traling edge, if you're letting it down hill?). A very valid solution would be to leave the winch where it is, and put a cable guide/fairlead centered on whatever edge the cable will exit the "cart" from. You "might" be far enough from the end to where you could just use an eye bolt.... Or I'm not sure if the fairlead on the winch is removable or not, but if it is, if you slid that to the (Front? Back?) of the cart, you wouldn't need one at the winch any more anyhow.

You are correct about the placement as is, but I have a "hawser" I believe it is called (fairlead with rollers top/bottom/sides) from another winch that will be bolted at the very front. So the line will be guided and swivel castors have clearance.

 

[Jake M]

You are correct about the placement as is, but I have a "hawser" I believe it is called (fairlead with rollers top/bottom/sides) from another winch that will be bolted at the very front. So the line will be guided and swivel castors have clearance.

That'll take care of that concern for sure. Still all of the "be careful" stuff of course, but I like it...

FWIW, a "hawse" fairlead is the solid, smooth radius metal edge design, no rollers. A roller fairlead is just as the name implies, the one with the rollers. An incomplete fairlead, where you might have two side rollers only, or maybe two sides and a top, or two sides and a bottom- That would be a roller "guide" or a hawse "guide". Yeah, nobody cares. Me neither. That's one of those things where local vernacular is always gonna prevail, it's only useful if you're trying to find something specific on the internet.

 

[StudioMachinist]

Rushed to wrap it up last night. Not thrilled with the ratchet strap pad eye placement but I think it will look right when it's actually holding the lathe down. Bought parts to make removable outriggers with smaller castors but after airing up the tires and standing on it, I'm confident its stable enough if I take it easy. Plan to move the lathe today, wish me luck

 

[toprecyler]

Good luck. Looks like it will work. Slow and easy will win the race.


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