RIA 1911 .45 ACP

Cholmes

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Hey guys, I have a RIA 1911 CS and have a couple of question. First, I would like to mill a few slots into the slide to lighten the mass a little, I have seen this done on several weapons so if anyone has any tips I would appreciate them. 2nd, I have looked everywhere for a 3.5" threaded barrel for my pistol and can only find them for the commander series or full size. Anyone know of a company that makes them for the 3.5" pistol or can I take a 4.5" barrel and shorten it, re-crown it and thread it?

Thanks in advance for the info.

Chuck
 
What caliber are you shooting? Reason I ask is that I have only lightened slides on my Steel Challenge pistols that were shooting reduced power 9mm. I've not considered doing it on a gun shooting .45 cal..
 
What caliber are you shooting? Reason I ask is that I have only lightened slides on my Steel Challenge pistols that were shooting reduced power 9mm. I've not considered doing it on a gun shooting .45 cal..

.45 ACP. I'm shooting standard factory load, not reloads. I'm thinking 3, 3/16" - 1/4" slots on each side about 3/4" from the muzzle. Similar to this.

Vented slide.jpg

Vented slide.jpg
 
I've always like the looks of slotted slides if looks are what you are after. For practice/target shooting, I like a heavy gun, less muzzle jump, easier for me to hold a sight and has less felt recoil, for carry (which I don't) I suspect a steel framed 45 no matter how you lighten is too heavy to be long term comfortable. My 45 with a 7round loaded mag is 2lb 14oz, those slots are not going to do much for that.

Ken
 
I'm not looking to remove total weight, just recprocating mass from the slide. Plus I like the looks as well.:))
 
I get the looks part. :)

But what is the goal of "reducing reciprocating mass"?

To control muzzle flip? Reduce cycle times? Just curious, as there are other ways to achieve those goals.
 
I get the looks part. :)

But what is the goal of "reducing reciprocating mass"?

To control muzzle flip? Reduce cycle times? Just curious, as there are other ways to achieve those goals.

Reducing cycle times mostly. The slide and frame has been polished as well as some other things to help. Just wanted to get all I can from it without buying a $2000.00 pistol.
 
When I was building competition guns based on the 1911, I had some high-speed photography done to gauge various compensator designs I was doing. An unintended side benefit of this was quantifying slide cycle times.

On my Steel Challenge pistols, I lightened the slides so that the reduced power loads could function the pistol correctly/reliably. The stock 1911 slide simply had too much mass for reliable cycling, but the counter to that was by reducing too much mass you jeopardize the reliability of the cartridge strip/chamber loading of the next round. Always trade offs. :)

Lightening the slide on a 1911 design shooting .45 cal will increase the rearward velocity of the slide to some degree, but there have been many arguments about if it is even perceivable to the shooter on just in their head. The downside to this is that the increased rearward velocity can accelerate the wear of your frame unless appropriate steps are taken like shock buffs, stiffer recoil springs, etc.. I have found that one of the best ways to improve cycle times in a 1911 design is simply to reduce or eliminate movement in undesired vectors, or in simpler terms, get rid of the slop in the major moving pieces. I'm talking about fitting the slide to frame, barrel to slide, and barrel to frame to get the smoothest action possible. But at this point you could be way north of $2000 if you are having this done by someone else.

Now I'm talking about competition guns here with all this. This is not something I would do for carry or duty guns (I still have 45s being carried as duty weapons over 20 years after I built them). Reliability is first and foremost for a duty or carry weapon. IMO anyway... :)

But at the end of the day those slots do look cool, so if you like them go for it and don't worry about the cycle times. :D

My only caution at this point would be to be careful of violating the integrity of the slide. You don't want a piece of that thing coming back at your face in the event of catastrophic failure.
 
When I was building competition guns based on the 1911, I had some high-speed photography done to gauge various compensator designs I was doing. An unintended side benefit of this was quantifying slide cycle times.

On my Steel Challenge pistols, I lightened the slides so that the reduced power loads could function the pistol correctly/reliably. The stock 1911 slide simply had too much mass for reliable cycling, but the counter to that was by reducing too much mass you jeopardize the reliability of the cartridge strip/chamber loading of the next round. Always trade offs. :)

Lightening the slide on a 1911 design shooting .45 cal will increase the rearward velocity of the slide to some degree, but there have been many arguments about if it is even perceivable to the shooter on just in their head. The downside to this is that the increased rearward velocity can accelerate the wear of your frame unless appropriate steps are taken like shock buffs, stiffer recoil springs, etc.. I have found that one of the best ways to improve cycle times in a 1911 design is simply to reduce or eliminate movement in undesired vectors, or in simpler terms, get rid of the slop in the major moving pieces. I'm talking about fitting the slide to frame, barrel to slide, and barrel to frame to get the smoothest action possible. But at this point you could be way north of $2000 if you are having this done by someone else.

Now I'm talking about competition guns here with all this. This is not something I would do for carry or duty guns (I still have 45s being carried as duty weapons over 20 years after I built them). Reliability is first and foremost for a duty or carry weapon. IMO anyway... :)

But at the end of the day those slots do look cool, so if you like them go for it and don't worry about the cycle times. :D

My only caution at this point would be to be careful of violating the integrity of the slide. You don't want a piece of that thing coming back at your face in the event of catastrophic failure.

Great info and advice Bill. I think I am just going to mill the slots at a slight depth to get the look but not go all the way through the base material. That way I don't mess with the integrity of the slide. Do you have any info on where I may find a threaded barrel for my pistol? As stated it has the 3.5" barrel and I can't seem to find any. Or can I shorten a 4.5" barrel, thread it and recrown it? Or maybe this is something you would be interested in doing for me.

Chuck
 
Are you wanting the threaded portion of the barrel to protrude from the end of the slide? In that case you would need a longer barrel than a 3.5"

A 4.5" barrel 'might' work, if it has enough meat behind the normal barrel bushing engagement surface. Or you might be able to do this with a 4.5" bull barrel intended for fitment to the slide without the barrel bushing. If I needed to do something like this I would probably call my old friend Irv at Barsto Barrels and order a bull barrel at the desired length. But a custom barrel from Irv used to take a long time to get. I haven't ordered one from him in a while so things may have changed.

I haven't worked on a customer's gun in ages, and when I did it was in my friend's shop and HE had the FFL. I do this stuff for me now... :)
 
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