Replacing Tapered bearings

[Gene]

I have tried to no avail to find any reference, help or hints as to replace the outer races in the headstock of my TH42. I need to know how to go about it without damaging or breaking the casting. Removal and installation advise would be greatly appreciated.

 

[NightWing]

With the spindle removed, you should be able to look at the cups and see the back surface against a shoulder in the casting. Take a soft drift or small steel bar and go around the back edge of the cup by tapping with a small hammer. Moving all around the cup you will see the cup slowly exiting the bore.

Replacing with a new cup is done in a similar fashion by tapping on the front edge. Make sure not to get it cocked. Soft steel is preferred over brass because brass will flake off.

I trust you are replacing both the cone and the cup.

 

[Don B]

Replacing with a new cup is done in a similar fashion by tapping on the front edge. Make sure not to get it cocked. Soft steel is preferred over brass because brass will flake off.

Yes as NightWing said, careful on the install, if possible when you have the new cup make a puller of sorts to install, just like a big washer, and use a piece of threaded rod to help pull it in and keep things square as you're taping around the edges.

Edit: I should not have said threaded rod, I meant to say use somthing like threaded rod but with a fine pitch, a 3/4 inch bolt fine thread might pull the cup in with no need for tapping with a hammer and drift.)

 

[Gene]

Thanks for the tips guys, and yes I intend to install in sets.

 

[wa5cab]

Places like Enco usually sell tapered cup installer driver disk sets, although the largest one may not be large enough for the spindle bearings in a 10" or 12". Years ago, when I used to do vintage Land Rover repairs and restorations I made a larger set out of 5/8" thick aluminum to fit all of the bearings used in a Rover of the day. OD about 0.01" smaller than the cup OD. Tapered from one side to a shoulder so that they fit into the cup from the wider side but pull on the flat end of the cup, not the tapered part. I usually used a hydraulic press to drive the disks but a 9/16" UNF puller bar and an untapered stepped disk at the other end of the part to pull against works for cases where you can't bring the part to the press. I actually had (have) a hollow hydraulic cylinder from an old Greenlee knockout punch set, which is where the odd 9/16" size came from.

Robert D.

 

[kd4gij]

Get some dry ice pack the reces in it for about 30 min thay will drop right in. Use gloves dryice will burn you.