Replacing machine plates and rivets....

[Nelson]

I removed the machine plates on my Van Norman mill by smashing off the heads with a screwdriver and hammer.

Most came off cleanly. On one, the corner of the plate where the hole is was broken off.

Question one: Can the piece to the plate be reattached using solder, or epoxy, or crazy glue, or something else to make a sturdy, lasting fix?

Question two: The rivets went into holes in large castings where the back is not easily accessible. How would I go about re-riveting the holes again (or would that be impossible). Would it be better to tap the holes and use small pan-head screws?

Thanks very much!!


Nelson

 

[Old Iron]

You should be able to drill out the rivets and get new drive rivet. What I do use a drimmel and put a screw slot in them and back them out with a screw driver. That works pretty good.

Paul

 

[Carl_in_NH]

These are called 'drive screws' - they are not rivets. Do a quick search on them and you'll find them to be common, and easy to obtain.

To remove them, cut a slot in the head with a Dremel tool cutoff wheel, and back them out with a screw driver. To install new ones, just tap them in with a tiny hammer.

I don't think there's an easy way to repair the plate and have a sturdy & lasting fix; soft solder is too soft, and glue isn't going to stick. You may just have learned life's lesson; when you don't know how to take something apart, don't guess - seek, search, and learn before continuing. Working on old machinery has taught me to not act in haste, lest I break something that hasn't been manufactured in 50 years and regret it.

Clear the old remains of the drive screws out of the holes with a _small_ drill bit - don't make the hole grow in diameter if you don't have to.

 

[Tony Wells]

Official name: U Drive Screw

http://www.smithfast.com/udrivescrew.html

Lots of people succeed in slotting them for a screwdriver, then backing them out. Some cut the heads off and after removing the plate, grab the nub and twist it out. The screws are reasonably hard on the surface, so drilling requires a good drill bit. If the backside is open, a punch can be used to knock them out.

If the plate is aluminum or an alloy, a good TIG hand could repair it. Copper or brass could be silver soldered.

 

[Nelson]

Thanks for all the suggestions, guys. A good lesson here- don't remove until you know how!

A few plates are brass, so silver solder will work. The aluminum or steel ones I will ask someone to TIG for me.

Thanks again!


Nelson