I need to change out the screw on my 10" F series cross slide. Never done it before and could sure use some directions. My thoughts are I'm going to have to take the apron apart . But I'm not sure so before I do something wrong I better ask. Thanks Mike
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removing cross slide screw assembly on 10" F
- Thread starter Mike R
- Start date
I had to do the same when I purchased my 10" lathe. I removed the lead screw bracket and slid the apron off the lathe. I replaced the cross slide screw and the brass retainer (don't know the correct name off hand). I had to use a hydraulic press to remove and install. Without any directions besides the breakdown it was pretty simple.
Royce
- Joined
- Dec 25, 2011
- Messages
- 10,552
Mike,
I assume that you mean the cross feed screw. Reference the Atlas 10 10F parts list available in Downloads. It is not necessary to remove or disassemble the carriage (the apron is a part of the carriage, not vice versa) in order to remove the cross feed screw.
First, crank the cross slide to the rear until the 10F-19 Nut runs off the end of the 10F-36 Screw. Then, remove the 10D-262 Nut and 9-103 Handle. Remove the #3 Woodruff Key. Remove the 3/8"-24 Hex Jam Nut. Loosen the set screw and remove the 10F-62 Dial. Remove the 10F-46 Bearing (it has normal right-hand threads). Note that the drawing shows the flange that contacts the saddle casting as being round. I've seen a photo of one on a 1956 Craftsman (uses the same carriage as the 10F) where this flange is hex. If yours is hex, use a box end wrench instead of a pin spanner. If it is round, you will have to have a pin spanner (and probably a small hammer) to remove the bearing. I don't have a 10F or early 12" and am not certain what the diameter of the flange is nor the diameter of the hole for the pin. But the pin spanner must match both. If two or three firm hammer taps don't dislodge it, spray the joint area with a good penetrating oil and let it sit for a day or so and try again. In either case, once the bearing is removed, pull the screw out toward you, with the 10F-33 Gear on it.
Remove and inspect the gear and key. If OK, transfer them to the new screw. You might want to reverse the gear if it shows any wear on the outer face. I would personally use new woodruff keys. Re-install the screw by reversing the removal procedure. Before re-engaging the screw and nut, adjust the end float by adjusting the jam nut. Check after tightening the outer nut. Repeat until there is minimal drag as you turn the crank.
If you are also changing the 10F-19 Nut, do that after the new screw is installed and before you pull the cross slide toward you to reengage the screw and nut. You will need to remove the 9-37A Guard in order to change the nut. Do not final tighten the 1/4" round head screw attaching the new nut until you have run the new nut fully onto the new screw.
I assume that you mean the cross feed screw. Reference the Atlas 10 10F parts list available in Downloads. It is not necessary to remove or disassemble the carriage (the apron is a part of the carriage, not vice versa) in order to remove the cross feed screw.
First, crank the cross slide to the rear until the 10F-19 Nut runs off the end of the 10F-36 Screw. Then, remove the 10D-262 Nut and 9-103 Handle. Remove the #3 Woodruff Key. Remove the 3/8"-24 Hex Jam Nut. Loosen the set screw and remove the 10F-62 Dial. Remove the 10F-46 Bearing (it has normal right-hand threads). Note that the drawing shows the flange that contacts the saddle casting as being round. I've seen a photo of one on a 1956 Craftsman (uses the same carriage as the 10F) where this flange is hex. If yours is hex, use a box end wrench instead of a pin spanner. If it is round, you will have to have a pin spanner (and probably a small hammer) to remove the bearing. I don't have a 10F or early 12" and am not certain what the diameter of the flange is nor the diameter of the hole for the pin. But the pin spanner must match both. If two or three firm hammer taps don't dislodge it, spray the joint area with a good penetrating oil and let it sit for a day or so and try again. In either case, once the bearing is removed, pull the screw out toward you, with the 10F-33 Gear on it.
Remove and inspect the gear and key. If OK, transfer them to the new screw. You might want to reverse the gear if it shows any wear on the outer face. I would personally use new woodruff keys. Re-install the screw by reversing the removal procedure. Before re-engaging the screw and nut, adjust the end float by adjusting the jam nut. Check after tightening the outer nut. Repeat until there is minimal drag as you turn the crank.
If you are also changing the 10F-19 Nut, do that after the new screw is installed and before you pull the cross slide toward you to reengage the screw and nut. You will need to remove the 9-37A Guard in order to change the nut. Do not final tighten the 1/4" round head screw attaching the new nut until you have run the new nut fully onto the new screw.
Thanks Royce and Robert for your reply's. I did take the carriage off and was able to get a better look at the underneath workings of the carriage which I hadn't seen before besides on the downloads. I ended up putting it back on to unscrew the 10 F-46 which was a hex shape.
I have another cross feed screw coming any day now, so once it gets here I will install it. Let me tell you a little about this lathe which I just purchased this past Friday. It has a quick change gearbox on it and that was what caught my eye plus the price of $500.00 and not to far from me. I saw it on Craigslist on Thursday morning and emailed the fellow but of course someone else was coming to see it on Friday. I emailed him back and told him to please let me know if he doesn't take it . He emails me back Friday saying the fellow didn't take it as he was looking for something bigger. Good for me ! I got directions from him and got in my truck and took off. Got there and checked it out as well as I know to and asked if he would take any less and he came down $100.00. Ok I'll take it. He goes to get his tractor with a set of forks on it and comes around to the door to prepare to pick it up . Now the lathe is bolted to a workbench , I turn my back for one second and out of the corner of my eye I seen the lathe and bench being knocked over !!!!!!! What the -------- ! He ran into the back of the bench and knocked to over. Busted the handle on the cross feed, and bent the end of the screw at the handle …… Just imagine yourself in my shoes. I had found a nice lathe at a good price and this bozo just---! I couldn't even talk, I just stared at it. He got off the tractor and came around to look at it and said " what now ? " At the time I knew that the handle was busted and it would cost around $50.00 to replace it so we lifted it back up and I plugged it in to see what was would happen. It runs fine and the quick change works fine , only thing was the busted handle and I missed the end of the screw being bent, not much but enough, what I saw was the nut holding the handle on was messed up.. Anyway I could only get him to come down another $100.00 and I wanted the quick change box so I went ahead and bought it. Now after purchasing the replacement parts I'm back to about $440.00 invested but still glad I have the QC . I'm sure I'll have lots more questions as time goes. Thanks a lot for your help . Mike
I have another cross feed screw coming any day now, so once it gets here I will install it. Let me tell you a little about this lathe which I just purchased this past Friday. It has a quick change gearbox on it and that was what caught my eye plus the price of $500.00 and not to far from me. I saw it on Craigslist on Thursday morning and emailed the fellow but of course someone else was coming to see it on Friday. I emailed him back and told him to please let me know if he doesn't take it . He emails me back Friday saying the fellow didn't take it as he was looking for something bigger. Good for me ! I got directions from him and got in my truck and took off. Got there and checked it out as well as I know to and asked if he would take any less and he came down $100.00. Ok I'll take it. He goes to get his tractor with a set of forks on it and comes around to the door to prepare to pick it up . Now the lathe is bolted to a workbench , I turn my back for one second and out of the corner of my eye I seen the lathe and bench being knocked over !!!!!!! What the -------- ! He ran into the back of the bench and knocked to over. Busted the handle on the cross feed, and bent the end of the screw at the handle …… Just imagine yourself in my shoes. I had found a nice lathe at a good price and this bozo just---! I couldn't even talk, I just stared at it. He got off the tractor and came around to look at it and said " what now ? " At the time I knew that the handle was busted and it would cost around $50.00 to replace it so we lifted it back up and I plugged it in to see what was would happen. It runs fine and the quick change works fine , only thing was the busted handle and I missed the end of the screw being bent, not much but enough, what I saw was the nut holding the handle on was messed up.. Anyway I could only get him to come down another $100.00 and I wanted the quick change box so I went ahead and bought it. Now after purchasing the replacement parts I'm back to about $440.00 invested but still glad I have the QC . I'm sure I'll have lots more questions as time goes. Thanks a lot for your help . Mike
Yeah- made me cringe too ……. Well I got my replacement screw yesterday and have reinstalled it--but when I tried out the automatic feed on the cross feed it doesn't work. Took the carriage off again and took a closer look and have found now that the miter gear 341-05f ? has teeth busted and the gear itself separated from the shaft as it fell of in my hands when I took it off. it looks like there is a piece of the shaft broken off in the collar 10f-71 that is about an 1/8" long. I need to learn how to upload pictures as they explain more than I can. Anyway I went out to my shop and thought I would have a replacement on a parts lathe that I bought this summer but not to be. The gear was gone but the bearing is there but that's not what I need at least not right now ! Anyone have a spare miter gear 341-05fthey would part with ? Well this has been quite the experience .. at least I'm getting to know the lathe . One more thing --- I can't figure out a year of make but it is painted a copper looking color. Looks original , any idea on age ? Thanks for listening , Mike