Removing a tapered shaft?

[DeadGuyAle]

Very basic newbe question.
I know my drill press has windows in the spindle for a wedge thing to remove the chuck From the taper.
Lathe tail stock has an ejector of sorts.
Whats the standard method to remove from a lathe spindle? Brass bar and beat it out from the end?

Just curious, I have a MT-4 test bar that I want to play around with and don’t want to standing around scratching my head wondering how to remove it wh done

And while we are on the subject what’s the best method to seat a taper in the spindle?
Thanks!

 

[graham-xrf]

Tapers are not supposed to stay stuck in hard by themselves. If any need to stay in place under heavy load, they are safely retained using a draw-bar, but without any draw-bar there, a firm tap using something with a non-damaging end should knock it free. You already know what feels right when you tap a wedge plate into the drill press spindle release. Up a lathe spindle, a brass or aluminium piece on the end of a piece of pipe, or even a wooden rod might do. "Beat it out from the end" sounds a bit aggressive.

For the test bar, as with any taper, it needs to go up into something very clean, and not dinged up, just the same as (say) when you put the chuck up into your drill press. A little shove of a few inches, to let it slightly smack in and lock, without hurting anything.

Lathe spindle tapers can get neglected if a chuck lives around them for long periods. They can fill up with crud, and chips, and start corroding. Mine are MT3, and I had to clean up one by hand with a taper reamer. Test bar is easy enough, but tapers under load should be secured with a draw-bar. Tighten enough to ensure the taper stays in place, but you need not madly over-tighten.

 

[DeadGuyAle]

Tapers are not supposed to stay stuck in hard by themselves. If any need to stay in place under heavy load, they are safely retained using a draw-bar, but without any draw-bar there, a firm tap using something with a non-damaging end should knock it free. You already know what feels right when you tap a wedge plate into the drill press spindle release. Up a lathe spindle, a brass or aluminium piece on the end of a piece of pipe, or even a wooden rod might do. "Beat it out from the end" sounds a bit aggressive.

For the test bar, as with any taper, it needs to go up into something very clean, and not dinged up, just the same as (say) when you put the chuck up into your drill press. A little shove of a few inches, to let it slightly smack in and lock, without hurting anything.

Lathe spindle tapers can get neglected if a chuck lives around them for long periods. They can fill up with crud, and chips, and start corroding. Mine are MT3, and I had to clean up one by hand with a taper reamer. Test bar is easy enough, but tapers under load should be secured with a draw-bar. Tighten enough to ensure the taper stays in place, but you need not madly over-tighten.

Always getting an education! I've actually never removed any taper fit tool (is a drill chuck a tool?) but get what you are saying. So in a single post I have learned
- It's called a wedge plate not a wedge thing (and I don't have one)
- If all is clean/smooth basically a firm slide in fit
- If all is clean/smooth should be able to tap it out as opposed to beat it out
- There are drawbar held tapers (sort of understood this but the statement made me think about it)

All pretty straight forward stuff and confirms the direction I was headed.
My only experience is with an taking an R8 holder out of the mill about 4 times helped by a tap on the drawbar. Seems like a taper could be much sticker and did not want to get into a "what was I thinking" situation because I was missing something.
Thanks

 

[benmychree]

Wedge plate? It is called a drill drift, and comes in sizes for all the taper numbers, so far as tailstock tapers, most are removed by cranking the handwheel all the way to the right and the screw end will eject the tool, some lathes have a tang slot in the quill also. I made knockout bars for the headstock spindle out of steel with a larger diameter brass end to do the knocking, made long enough to be able to hold onto at the left end of the spindle, and lightly knurled for grip.

 

[SLK001]

On a lot of lathes, the tailstock will NOT eject a standard taper that doesn't have a "nub" on the end. If you encounter a taper that will NOT eject, simply remove the tailstock leadscrew, then insert a dowel rod into the hole and tap the taper out. It's best to use some non-marring metal, such as brass or aluminum, but steel can be used if you're gentle with it.