Quill R8 Key

verbotenwhisky

verbotenwhisky

H-M Supporter - Gold Member
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Dec 18, 2022
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3 parts to this.

First, I read a post in the forum about the screw in the quill of a 932 which acts as the key for the R8 tools. It solved a problem I had with my 950V. I could not relocate the post so thank you if you happen upon this post. My problem was an issue with my tools not fitting properly and the post had a photo of the screw noting that the individual did not have the screw tight enough, just knowing about the screw and where it was helped me, perfect.

Second, when I extracted the screw the tip which acted as the key was partially sheared and bent over, neither loosening nor tightening would fix the issue. I identified the screw as a M5x0.8x10mm lg. and acquired one from the local hardware store, a 45H hardness and turned the end of it down to fit this works but created an additional problem. The real solution turned out to be a M5x0.8x12mm with and extending tip just for this type application, I found these at Mac Master Carr.

Third, when using the home made screw I discovered that a number of my tools with integrated R8 connections have key ways which have been cut with wood-ruff key cutters which means they end in a gentle radius at the tapper end and are not cut as close to the tapper as are those cut with a mill, Couple this with the fact that the Screw/key is a bit further down toward the spindle opening and running the key out as far as it really should go prevents these tools from seating in the end of the spindle.

I am really interested in knowing if anyone else has discovered this? If so what are your thoughts? I am tempted to setup a fixture and mill those tools with the issues farther toward the tool end of the R8 so I can better adjust the key, any thoughts?
 
Yes, I went through a similar process, though on my Bridgeport clone, replacing the key and eventually eliminating it, as others have suggested. Everything works fine without it. Indeed, in the process, my 3/4” R8 collet had been made with a way too short keyway, so now it’s usable again.
 
Winegrower said:
Yes, I went through a similar process, though on my Bridgeport clone, replacing the key and eventually eliminating it, as others have suggested. Everything works fine without it. Indeed, in the process, my 3/4” R8 collet had been made with a way too short keyway, so now it’s usable again.
Click to expand...
How did you eliminate it?
 
MOST Bidgeport and other R8 machines in the field have this set screw removed either by damaging the tip or actual removal of the set screw.
With no effect to accuracy or tool holding capability.
Even with your 3 inch face mill..
.
 
Eddyde said:
I removed the screw on my mill and never had a collet slip in the quill. I've only had tools slip in the collet but the screw would do nothing to prevent tha
Click to expand...
Okay, I will try that.
 
Yes, the taper will drive a 3" face mill. The key simply prevents the collet from spinning while tightening. Once damaged, it can also prevent removing the collet.
 
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