Precision ground point?

[Red96]

From time to time I find that it would be quite handy to have a precision ground pointy tool that could be chucked up in a mill or lathe and used for locating or other setup uses.

Is there something available that is akin to the pointed edge-finder tool below, but solid with a rigid tip instead of the spring loaded tip?



I realize I could turn a taper on a piece of drill rod and grind to a point with a tool post grinder, but if something is available for a few bucks it would be well worth it, knowing it is concentric and hopefully hardened.

Thanks in advance.

 

[woodchucker]

I have a sharp awl that is removed from the handle. It registers quickly. But if I need absolute precision I use my wiggler

 

[David2011]

One of the great things about Internet forums is getting all kinds of answers that don't answer the question that was originally asked so here's mine.

One day about 10 years ago, on a whim I chucked up a broken 3/8" end mill in a 3 jaw chuck. I turned a point on it with a cheap Chinese TCMT carbide tool and the compound set at 30°. It probably isn't perfect but it's close enough for the myriad of things I do with it. It gets used all the time. I also have some music wire pointers that were made with a bench grinder and a drill in the 1/8" to 1/4" range. I can't tell you how accurate they are with metrology but when I touch one of them to aluminum or brass in a milling vise while spinning they make a dot and not a circle. All of the tools mentioned are short; guessing between 1.5" and 3.5" long.

 

[Ulma Doctor]

I sharpen 1/8” and 3/16” carbide rod blanks to a 60* point on the tool and cutter grinder and install them into an R8 or a ER32 collet in the spindle
Quick and easy to find center!

 

[extropic]

Look for a "wiggler" and learn how to use it. I'm not going to watch the video but, at 1/2 hour long, it must cover the subject thoroughly.

 

[MrWhoopee]

We called them a "pointier point". Broken endmill shank with a 60 deg. point ground on it. I still have one somewhere.

 

[ChazzC]

I use a 0.10mm "point" I made from a set of mini carbide drills (readily available on eBay, but I special ordered a set of just 0.10mm):




Starting with a 0.1mm drill bit:




I snapped off the drill portion and have a 0.1mm point (not my idea, see this post on another Forum):


Which at 0.004" is as close as you are going to be able to get with a visual alignment with a center punch or layout line intersection without using a Centering Scope (and maybe better if you use a 10X loupe).


The shaft is 1/8", but can use an Amana RB-121 bushing in a 3/8" collet:




I also use a range of 60° centers to align with the centers of existing holes:


Mount the 60° center in the mill spindle and lower into the existing hole, then set 0, 0.

 

[woodchucker]

I use a 0.10mm "point" I made from a set of mini carbide drills (readily available on eBay, but I special ordered a set of just 0.10mm):

View attachment 494951


Starting with a 0.1mm drill bit:

View attachment 494952


I snapped off the drill portion and have a 0.1mm point (not my idea, see this post on another Forum):

View attachment 494953
Which at 0.004" is as close as you are going to be able to get with a visual alignment with a center punch or layout line intersection without using a Centering Scope (and maybe better if you use a 10X loupe).


The shaft is 1/8", but can use an Amana RB-121 bushing in a 3/8" collet:

View attachment 494964


I also use a range of 60° centers to align with the centers of existing holes:

View attachment 494965
Mount the 60° center in the mill spindle and lower into the existing hole, then set 0, 0.

great idea Chazz. Very accurate and stout (the drill). Anyone with PCB drill probably has already broken off or will break off the tip.

 

[mmcmdl]

I use my supply to pick up existing holes before I stick the indicator in . Usually within 5 thou if the chamfer is correct . In the dies , I had to pick up 3 existing holes and dial off to the 4rth hole . Really didn't matter much , removing the broken taps made the carbide end mill walk a little taking out 1 side of the thread . Many times I machined the hole oversize and pressed in a threaded stainless sleeve . Never had any issues after I did that .

 

[ChazzC]

I use my supply to pick up existing holes before I stick the indicator in . Usually within 5 thou if the chamfer is correct . In the dies , I had to pick up 3 existing holes and dial off to the 4rth hole . Really didn't matter much , removing the broken taps made the carbide end mill walk a little taking out 1 side of the thread . Many times I machined the hole oversize and pressed in a threaded stainless sleeve . Never had any issues after I did that .

"supply?"