PM-833T x-axis backlash, oops?

M

macmccaskie

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Not too long ago I tightened down the bolt anchoring the x-axis lead screw to cure the backlash. Welp, the backlash is back and I sorta think maybe I stripped the threads when I tightened that bolt. What's a good fix? I'm thinking maybe install a screw-sert. I'll need to order a kit but am not sure what size, is that bolt 8mm?
 
Erich
Ah, thanks for the diagram - leadscrew(49) is held in place by thingy(51). I think I stripped bolt(50) and thingy(51) is floating. Securing thingy(51) may be the only adjustment.

LOL, I'm sure "thingy(51)" has a real name, just don't know what.
 
50 is listed on the next page as screw: skt head, m8x20.

Not sure what skt head means, but it has the size at least!
 
Most likely "skt" is the German abbrieviation for "Sechskant", a hexagonal screw head. Not sure how this made its way into the documentation of Taiwanese mill.
 
j-becker said:
Most likely "skt" is the German abbrieviation for "Sechskant", a hexagonal screw head. Not sure how this made its way into the documentation of Taiwanese mill.
Click to expand...
My best guess is "socket" as in socket head cap screw, but it is a super weird abbreviation.
 
www.hobby-machinist.com

Function of this socket head screw (PM-833T)?

Hello, In my attempt to reduce my PM-833T's backlash on the X and Y axes, I had to remove the X-axis lead screw. I confirmed with PM that the "C" (red label) screw is for adjusting the backlash of the X-axis. PM advised that target backlash is 0.005". Less than that may lead to excessive and...
www.hobby-machinist.com www.hobby-machinist.com

The above thread may help. #50 socket head cap screw secures the lead screw nut to the cast iron frame. The backlash adjustment screw is labeled "C" in the first post picture. I found inconsistencies between actual machine and part diagram. The backlash set screw was not drawn in the part diagram.
 
Okey-Doke, thanks Rhizome & Erich, now I don't have to tear it down to discover the bolt size. Does anyone think putting in a 10 mm screw a bad idea? Or should I do the screw-sert instead?
 
Update: Over the weekend I removed the table and discovered I had not stripped the threads. I replaced the screws with longer ones and torqued them done. I suspect the base of the threaded bracket was convex and gave me a stripped feeling the first time around. All is well.
 
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