Pictures of the PM-833T

[7milesup]

Just thought that i would post some pictures of the 833T mill. I purchased this mill in December and it seems like there just is not many pictures available online of this mill.

So, here ya go.

The mill comes with a small toolbox with a shell mill holder and another R8 holder that has a short taper stub. It happens to fit my Albrecht chuck that I have for it.
Also in the toolbox was a instruction manual/parts diagram. Almost unreadable, but Matt does have one on line that is significantly better.

 

[7milesup]

A couple pictures of the underside of the base castings. I thought that they looked pretty good compared to some of the castings that come out of China (this mill is from Taiwan in case you are unfamiliar with the 833T).

You can also see the tubing welded around the mounting holes to prevent fluid from dripping down on the storage cabinet that will eventually have a home under the mill.

 

[7milesup]

Overall, I am quite impressed with the quality of this machine. The table and ways seem to be very, very nice. They operate smooth as butta too.

 

[7milesup]

I took a picture of the oiling button just to show that the paint is not all chipped away from where they inserted the button. Seems like some care was taken when they assembled the machine.

The machine does come standard with a one shot lube system.

 

[7milesup]

Haha. I just figured out that you can do thumbnails or "full' size. Lol. Sorry guys for the goofy thread here.

 

[7milesup]

Shot of the motor and the spindle. The cap on top is cast iron. Rather surprised as most that I have seen on other "benchtop" mills are plastic. At 900+ lbs though, to me this is just at the ragged end of benchtop.

One of the things I have not figured out yet is how to hold the spindle when tightening or loosening the drawbar. I figured there would be a wrench to fit over the splines or something, but no wrenches came with the mill at all. So, I know I am a noob, but the only way I can change out collets is to put the mill in the lowest gear and then I can tighten or loosen the drawbar.

 

[7milesup]

The fine down-feed is via sliding collar that engages the fine feed wheel. Works quite well.

Shot of the front too. Not many "frills" on this machine, but it is a nicely made machine with a lot of HP and room for add-ons, like a DRO, etc.

 

[7milesup]

Also purchased Matt's 5 inch "high precision" machining vise.

 

[7milesup]

I also made a stand for mine instead of the purchasing the one Matt sells. I did this largely because of storage space and wanting/needing to optimize my storage options under the mill.
I most likely will pound together a wooden tool chest out of some crappy wood for storage. I am thinking 10d nails to hold it together.

The stand it 2x3x 3/16 tube and 2x2x3/16 tubing. Tig welded together. I can weld, but I am not a welder. Does that make sense? LOL

 

[7milesup]

I used some clone Caster Master casters. They were $65 for 4 of them off of Amazon. They seem to work fine, but they are not a "two finger" push to move the mill around like some have said that the Caster Masters are.