Painting Bridgeport, Paint Recommendations?

[Sendit]

Since I have my machine about 70% apart, it the best time to go a head and repaint it.


I'm going to assume using purple power or simple green is ok to use as was/grease remover.


What I don't know is what paint to use. Searching the net, I've found a lot of different paints were used by people such as: oil based, urethane, enamel, epoxy, etc.

I found one thread where a guy used sand blaster (flapping wheel) but I can't see to find it. It made quick work of the original paint. I though about placing the main parts near a heater to help pull the oil out of the casting. Lord know that's the last thing I want in there, oil.

I want do to this once. What primer and paint will hold up to the oil/grease/coolant that these machines commonly see?
Rustoleum battleship grey looks to be close to original color, it only come sin a 2 part epoxy.

Process:
using sanding wheel to take off the the top coat.
Using hot water and purple power to degrease and remove other dirt
Lacquer thinner or mineral spirits for finial cleaning
Prime
Paint

 

[RJSakowski]

In a business endeavor in past years, we were having problems with chemicals attacking the anodizing on some lab equipment that we made. We used a clear urethane spray over the anodizing. I have a couple of plates that were scrapped out and wanted to strip the anodizing before machining. I was not able to find any chemical, including the methylene chloride based stripper that seems to work on everything, that attacked the urethane. I had to scrape it with a razor blade to expose the anodizing. It was even difficult to break through with sanding.
Tough stuff!

 

[AxeMaker]

Any special color requirements?

I prefer to work with lacquer myself... I have several cans of the Dupli-Color automotive paint which is an acrylic lacquer. It's about $26 a quart at your local O`Reillys Auto Parts store. Or, you can get it on Amazon Prime for $21.22.

The link I provided goes to metallic silver, however I do believe in order to achieve the metallic part of it you need to add the metallic clear coat. Obviously I do not think you would a mill with a metallic paint job. So just use the quart by itself and a quart of matte clear coat.

I saw one fellow on here posted his rebuild project and he went with a bright yellow sort of like this one.

 

[Sendit]

I was thinking something long the lines of battleship gray for color. Paint wise just something that is strong and resistance to oil/grease/coolant.

 

[AxeMaker]

The silver/grey might be a little light, you could just add a little black in it then mix. I would think that automotive paint would be resistant to oil/grease/coolant.

 

[Metal]

Any overcoats? I noticed while refurbing my BP that areas where coolant or oil would sit's paint had turned to pudding.

 

[Sendit]

Any overcoats? I noticed while refurbing my BP that areas where coolant or oil would sit's paint had turned to pudding.

Overcoats?

The paint now in areas are flaking off or has separated from the casting and the paint it self is just holding it self together.

 

[Metal]

Overcoats?

The paint now in areas are flaking off or has separated from the casting and the paint it self is just holding it self together.

A final layer of different paint, or clear coat to protect the paint

 

[Sendit]

Ah topcoat. The pervious owner didn't apply any. I haven't gave it much though honestly.


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[alloy]

I used this. Sanded and primed it first. I didn't clear it, but I did on my second mill rebuild. It's worth putting the clear on. The color seems to stay brighter longer with the clear on it. To clean it I started with simple green and it didn't do much at all. Then I picked up some "Awesome cleaner" from Dollar Tree and it worked much better and cheap.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Ole...otective-Enamel-Spray-Paint-7587838/100144179

Here is my thread on the Bridgeport rebuild.

http://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/just-picked-up-a-bp.24097/page-3#post-221846