Optical aid adventure

petcnc

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The inspiration came from "Model engineers Workshop 1"

Inspiration.jpg

A pair of cheap binoculars my kids turned into bits and pieces revealed some interesting glass prisms!

I found out they are called "porro prisms"
Binocular.jpg
After some consideration instead of throwing them prisms in the dust bin, I thought I could use it for the project.

PA310302.JPG

As you can see They are VERY CLEAR and you can use it to view from a 90 degree angle.

All I need was a metal bar to support it and to scratch a cross on the horizontal surface so I can "aim" directly on the target.

Step 1. making the bar.

Using a scrap round cast iron bar, I created a 45 deg angle at one end.

PB010303.JPG

I thought I should create two different diameter rounds at the other end (16 and 12 mm) so it can go in two different collet sizes.

PB020306.JPG

The finished bar ready to receive the prism.

PB020307.JPG

Testing the prism fitting

PB020308.JPG

Looks ok for the purpose...

PB020310.JPG

Some strong glue, a bit of paint and 24 hours later all set!

PB020328.JPG

Step 2 the final touch

Now the presision work to "engrave" the aiming aid on the horizontal surface of the prism.
I thought I could use a cheap Diamond Dresser Pen I bought from e-bay.

PB020312.JPG

I centered the dresser pen using a 6mm collet and secured it on the mill vise pointing upwards.

Then I put the bar with the prism in a 16 mm collet and touching the diamond point I scribed a cross using only the Y axis of the mill (scribe line 1 then rotate prism 90 degrees and scribe vertical line.

PB020318.JPG

Then I thought "why not making two circles as well?"
I went for it. Circles made but the diamond decided to leave this world and join it's ancestors...

I murmured a few words about China and my incompetence to handle precious stones!!!!
But even with a broken diamond (I managed to break a diamond!!!) the circles were created.

PB020316.JPG

Step 3 The tool in use

I put an iron bar with a 4mm hole in the mill vise and tried to center the hole using my new tool!!

PB020320.JPG

This is what I see through the prism!!!

PB020325.JPG

The moral of the story:
When something breaks don't try to fix it! Make a tool out of it instead.

Thank you for reading this.

Petros

Inspiration.jpg Binocular.jpg PA310302.JPG PB010303.JPG PB020306.JPG PB020307.JPG PB020308.JPG PB020310.JPG PB020328.JPG PB020312.JPG PB020318.JPG PB020316.JPG PB020320.JPG PB020325.JPG
 
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Hey... That's an interesting idea. I can't tell you how many prisms and other pieces of optics I have from my Holography days. I may have to give something like that a try.

Thanks for sharing,

Eric
 
Try to rotate the spindle 90o degrees left and right and check if it keeps center.If not,the 45o degrees are not 45o.Also make small touch with
a center drill on a scrap piece,replace the drill with the optical aid without moving anything and check again for centering.I am not trying to
"shorten" your idea,is a very clever one.I'm just trying to point somethings from my experience.A good idea also is to fill the target scratches
with something black and ,more,you could add a shadow piece so only light through the prism will show to improve contrast.
If "improvements" are made i will appreciate much any new photos.
Thanks for the idea.
Ariscats
 
Over here in the States, we would call that “yankee ingenuity”, great job!
 
Over here in the States, we would call that “yankee ingenuity”, great job!
Whaoo! shall I feel a little bit like a yankee now?

@ ariscats:

Thanks for the kind words pal, I have already tried the 90 rotation and there was no movement.
Great idea with the black filling. I will borrow some black nail polish from my wife's stuff and see how it works.
I'm not sure I understood the shadow part though... Do you mean to fix something on the eye side like old cameras had?
camera shade.jpg

camera shade.jpg
 
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excellent work,
it never dawned on me to use a prism for anything else than chilling out with some pink floyd :jester:
 
Whaoo! shall I feel a little bit like a yankee now?

@ ariscats:

Thanks for the kind words pal, I have already tried the 90 rotation and there was no movement.
Great idea with the black filling. I will borrow some black nail polish from my wife's stuff and see how it works.
I'm not sure I understood the shadow part though... Do you mean to fix something on the eye side like old cameras had?
View attachment 87317

Something like a black carton tube (hood?) about 10 cm to cut reflections of ambient lighting
 
Great idea I may try it out. I just got an email from a company called surplus shed they have Porro prisms on sale this week for 7 $ if anyone's looking for one I have no connection to the company but have gotten stuff before from them and was happy with my order
 
Optical aid mystery

Trying the tool I had some hard to explain results that I wish to share with you all.

MYSTERY 1.

When the prism is very close to the surface you wish to center (a couple of mm) you see the surface very accurately (i.e. at the same position) no matter the angle your eye is in relation to the vertical side of the prism.
In other words it doesn't matter if you are in position "A" or "B" or "C" you see the hole to the same place (see photo)
ViewAngle.jpg

I (wrongly) thought that the situation will be the same when you move the prism at a height from the surface you want to center.
In that case I found out that happens exactly what happens when you look through a mirror.
The Image seems to relate to the angle you are looking it! Different angles show the image at a different height (see next drawing).

MirrorReflection.jpg

To make things worst different horizontal angle shows the image in different horizontal position.

Solution: none!!!!


MYSTERY 2.

I had another porro prism and decided to make another tool. This time instead of applying glue to the sides of the prism I covered all the long side (hypotenuse) with contact cement to make it "As strong as possible".

Cement.jpg

To my huge surprise I COULD NOT SEE A THING through the prism! Total darkness.
To find out what happened I asked Mr Google to enlight my ignorance.
Mr. Google pointed at:
http://www.astro.caltech.edu/~lah/ay105/pdf/Fundamental-Optics.pdf

There at chapter "Prisms" I found out that:

TOTAL INTERNAL REFLECTION
Rays incident upon a glass/air boundary (i.e., an internal reflection) at angles
that exceed the critical angle are reflected with 100-percent efficiency
regardless of their initial polarization state. The critical angle is given by
Typos.jpg
and depends on the refractive index, which is a function of wavelength. If,
at some wavelength, the refractive index should fall to less than √2=1.414,
the critical angle will exceed 45 degrees, and total internal reflection (TIR)
will fail for a collimated beam internally incident at 45 degrees on the
hypotenuse face of a right-angle prism. Reflectance decreases rapidly at
angles of incidence smaller than the critical angle.

In pure english it means that for a prism or a fiber optic surrounded by air if the
angle is 45 deg or more we have TOTAL INTERNAL DEFLECTION
Fiber.jpg

Ehm!! in my case the long side (reflective side) was covered by contact cement and not air!!!
That explained the absense of an image as I expected according to (a) at above drawing as the light instead of reflecting was going through the cement and God knows where through it.

Solution: leave the long side clean of glue as I did in the first tool I made

NEW DISCOVERY

So I have solved the mystery of no reflection and, if the prism touches air and no glue at the long side I also discovered that you can light the surface below from the front of the prism!! (see below)

Light.jpg

CONCLUSION
It was a learning journey for me! A real adventure! I enjoyed every moment of the construction and, within its limitations, the tool is very accurate and easy to use.

Thank you for reading this

ViewAngle.jpg MirrorReflection.jpg Cement.jpg Typos.jpg Fiber.jpg Light.jpg
 
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