One down three to go

[ltlvt]

I'm Gona be doing some boring on the apron of my Clausing 5913 but before I start the job, I am making some Jacks to help me level it out as close to zero as possible. The hole appears simple, but it supports the hand wheel which also must mesh with other gears inside the apron. We all should know what happens to gears that do not mesh as they should. I will bore the casting and also make a bass bushing so it can be replaced next time instead of wearing the casting out. Beats me why Clausing did not do this when it was built new. It seems to be a very high wear spot on most lathes. The shaft has already been welded up and re-machined the O/D. I added some holes in the bolt heads so I can insert a pin or Allen wrench to hold them while screwing the nut. The welding rod is just to show the hole diameter. I'm really in love with this Bridgeport Clone mill. It is so much quieter and smoother than the gear head PM 833 T bench mill. As I use it, I continue to make improvements that make it easier to use. I've even included the mess I made. Just a couple of side notes, I tried using a 2-flute center cut 1/2" Brubaker end mill to bore the holes in the aluminum. First drilling a 29/64" hole. End mill was brand new, and I got it from McMaster Carr. I finally gave up on it and used An Accurite end mill that I bought in a set from Amazon, and it went thru the aluminum like Ex lax thru a diarrhea ward. Just goes to show sometimes better stuff made in Canada. Note #2 is the knurling tool that came with my Quick-change tool post is total junk. I'll just leave it at that. No sense in letting my potty mouth make a fool out of me.

 

[Flyinfool]

Silly question but somebody has to ask it. How often do you oil that shaft? It looks like there is an oil hole on the boss. It also looks very dry. My lathe is 40+ years old and no wear in the cast iron on that shaft. Mine also shows oil everywhere, if anything I oil it to much and to often.
With no oil the brass bushing will wear out quick also.

 

[ltlvt]

Silly question but somebody has to ask it. How often do you oil that shaft? It looks like there is an oil hole on the boss. It also looks very dry. My lathe is 40+ years old and no wear in the cast iron on that shaft. Mine also shows oil everywhere, if anything I oil it to much and to often.
With no oil the brass bushing will wear out quick also.

I have never oiled it. But that is because I have never used it. I agree it needs to be oiled on every use, but I also continue to believe it is a lousy design. All the other shafts in the apron have replaceable bushings from the factory so why not this one. Thanks for responding. Their are no sill questions on here. By responding and discussion we become better machinist. At least I do and that is my reason for asking for response to my post. Thanks again for your reply.

 

[OTmachine]

I like the jack screws and the basic set-up.
Since the bore is worn, have you thought about finding true location required for the bore? I do not know if you have a good original reference diameter, since it was repaired before?

 

[ltlvt]

I like the jack screws and the basic set-up.
Since the bore is worn, have you thought about finding true location required for the bore? I do not know if you have a good original reference diameter, since it was repaired before?

I have a plan to use a precision bushing from the back side of the apron where the oil plug goes. with a close tolerance id on the bushing for a length of precision ground rod. Indicate the ground rod to the center of the spindle. Then make a flanged brass bushing blank to press fit the hole that was re-bored. Then drill and bore the bushing in place to a close slip fit to the geared shaft. Using the paper gage method to measure the tooth clearance in the gears meshing together. Like Tom from "Tom's Techniques" said I can always take the bushing out and make another if I need to adjust the tooth clearance. I know it is going to be nerve wracking but its got to be done. It's a shame Clausing does not make prints with dimensions available. The machine is a 1964 model, and they created the problem by not installing replaceable bushings from the factory. And like Flyinfool said a little oil would surely have helped but it is what it is and now I need to fix Clausing poor design. I will try to make further pictures and videos as I progress through the repair for future reference for others. Thanks for bringing up the question that I have pondered in my sleep for 3 years. I welcome anyone's advice on how to or where to get information for the OEM centerline.

 

[OTmachine]

Sounds like you have it together. Since you are making a flanged bushing, it will give you the opportunity to move the bushing bore, (if required), and lock the location by pinning the flange.

 

[ltlvt]

Sounds like you have it together. Since you are making a flanged bushing, it will give you the opportunity to move the bushing bore, (if required), and lock the location by pinning the flange.

Pinning the bushing is a good idea I had not thought about. Thanks

 

[Flyinfool]

I have never oiled it. But that is because I have never used it. I agree it needs to be oiled on every use, but I also continue to believe it is a lousy design. All the other shafts in the apron have replaceable bushings from the factory so why not this one. Thanks for responding. Their are no sill questions on here. By responding and discussion we become better machinist. At least I do and that is my reason for asking for response to my post. Thanks again for your reply.

If it is never used how did it wear out? Is that shaft not turning anytime the carriage is moving. Or am I thinking of the wrong shaft, I was thinking that this is the shaft for the hand wheel for moving the carriage back and forth?

 

[ltlvt]

If it is never used how did it wear out? Is that shaft not turning anytime the carriage is moving. Or am I thinking of the wrong shaft, I was thinking that this is the shaft for the hand wheel for moving the carriage back and forth?

I said I have never used it not that it has never been used. I did say I have never oiled it. Yes, it is the hand wheel for the carriage and yes it always moves when the carriage moves.

The lathe was badly abused by the person who I bought it from and probably seen years of use from others before he bought it. He was selling it because he was getting divorced for the 4th time. I hope his x wife divorced him for lathe abuse. The half nut was completely absent of any threads and the Banjo was broken and brazed back together. He had removed the shims from the front and rear gibs and had them so tight you could not move the carriage. Yep a basket case but a magnificent project for learning how to rebuild a lathe. I have another old Clausing model 100 for doing rough work. Yesterday I made a couple of parts that my target was 1.250" and I successfully hit the 1.251 mark in just 3 moves on both of them. Not using a indicator just the graduations on the cross-slide handle. Yes, I am Tootin my horn again but there is a lot to be said when people say it is the Machinist not the Machine that makes the part. I learned how to ride a bicycle on a bicycle with no tires just rims on a gravel road. My dad found the bicycle in the city dump and brought it home for me. I was so young I had not started school yet and I would chase the school bus on that bicycle when my brothers and sister would leave on the bus every morning. Had a lot of scabs on my knees and elbows riding that POS but it was my teacher. Same with these old machines.