old receiver hitch gets transformed...

cathead

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Yesterday, I made a square 5c collet holder out of an old receiver
hitch. It was an interesting lathe and mill project and I even got
to use the unfinished collet holder to machine the pin that keeps
the collet from rotating. I'm still eyeing the remains of the hitch
receiver to see if there could be a hex collet holder inside...

The spanner wrench works but is a little big so will most likely
have to make one to fit the tool.

IMG_0557.JPG
 
Great Idea, I like re-purposed materials. I've been thinking of making a pair of collet holders, myself.
 
Hex 5c collet fabrication

The square 5c collet holder was a lot easier to make than the hex. My first
attempt was using a home made 30 degree angle plate and positioning
the square stock in the vise. I wasn't satisfied with the accuracy. Then
I bored a .99 inch hole in the block and mounted it on a home made
slightly tapered mandrel about a foot long. It slammed on really tight so
set the assembly between centers using a rotary table to set the angles.
That turned out much better. Also I put together a wrench to tighten up
the collets. Here's a photo of both of them and the wrench with the
remains of the receiver in the background. I wonder what that might turn
into.....

IMG_0559.JPG
 
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Inspiring. It's satisfying to see a piece of scrap, something that others would probably through in the scrap bin get turned into something of beauty and function.
 
Yesterday, I made a square 5c collet holder out of an old receiver
hitch. It was an interesting lathe and mill project and I even got
to use the unfinished collet holder to machine the pin that keeps
the collet from rotating. I'm still eyeing the remains of the hitch
receiver to see if there could be a hex collet holder inside...

The spanner wrench works but is a little big so will most likely
have to make one to fit the tool.

You made a great tool item there! I need to make tool items for myself just like this one. I do have some questions. In your picture there is a round nut? With 4 notches milled into it. Is this nut used to screw onto the back of the actual collet to tighten it into the square block? This would mean that the collet itself would have a threaded section on the back end? Is this what a 5c collet has? Looking in the only tool catalogue that I have, it lists R8 Collets and the picture of the collet shows a keyway slot along the parallel section of the collet. Is this the reason that your collet holder has a pin to prevent the collet from turning?
Kind regards Basil
 
You made a great tool item there! I need to make tool items for myself just like this one. I do have some questions. In your picture there is a round nut? With 4 notches milled into it. Is this nut used to screw onto the back of the actual collet to tighten it into the square block? This would mean that the collet itself would have a threaded section on the back end? Is this what a 5c collet has? Looking in the only tool catalogue that I have, it lists R8 Collets and the picture of the collet shows a keyway slot along the parallel section of the collet. Is this the reason that your collet holder has a pin to prevent the collet from turning?
Kind regards Basil

Hi Basil,

Yes, the round nut with the 4 notches screws on to the back of the outside of the collet and that pulls the collet back
and tightens the item in the chuck. The collet threads stick out about 3/8 inch in my case and are 1.25 x 20tpi. There
are also threads inside the collet and they are used as a stop to index parts, I assume for making multiple small parts
I don't know the diameter of the inside threads but I do know they are 22 tpi. R8 collets are somewhat smaller and
are commonly used in milling machine spindles. The 5c collet has a groove in it and prevents the collet from
rotating when tightening it up. Here's a photo for you so you can see what a 5c collet looks like. I would be glad
to help any way I can so if there is anything I can do to help, just let me know.

All the best,

Burt AKA Cathead
IMG_0572.JPG
 
Good day Burt, I appreciate the reply that you sent me, and the pictures, great stuff. Thank you for clarifying my questions on your C5 collets.
I can really do with a collet holder like yours. So I am going to make it my next project. I have two scenario's here, firstly the R8 collets in my tool catalogue are held in place by means of a 7/16UNF draw bar. This means that you cannot have a long piece of material in the collet as the drawbar will prevent this? Is my thinking correct here? Secondly, my catalogue also lists a range of "ER"Collets. They are in different size groups. ER11, ER16, ER20, 25, 32, and ER40. Theses collets are held in place by means of a "front nut". So as an example, your square block holder would have an outside thread on the front, for the "front nut" to screw onto and at the same time it would hold the collet in place and also compress the collet as the front nut was tightened. This arrangement would still allow a long piece of material to pass right through the collet holder. So my thinking is to use the ER type of collet as opposed to the R8 collets. I have not come across the 5C collets that you have. What are your thoughts on using either of the two types of collets available to me.

Something else that I have noticed, at the bottom of your picture there is a short list of what seems to be machinery items that you have. One of them is a "Speedty melt" casting foundry. Do you cast items into sand molds?
Kind regards Basil
 
Hi Basil,

5c collets tighten from the back and ER collets tighten from the front side. You can run a long shaft through a 5c or the ER
collet but not the R8. I have considered the ER collets but am already invested in the 5c stuff so will use that for the present
anyway. Yes, I have a Speedy melt foundry and a Johnson Foundry so can melt aluminum and brass using green sand mold
technique. I have made a lot of castings with aluminum and brass but in the cold of winter it has to wait. We are supposed to
have 25 below zero F ( about -30C) tonight with wind chill for added measure. This spring I plan to do a bunch of
aluminum, and brass casting outside as it warms up.

On the collet subject, 5c collets are hard to beat and not that expensive. I ordered mine some years ago
from ENCO manufacturing and they have been entirely satisfactory. 5c Collets are pretty universal
and I am sure could be had quite easily for you. Please feel free to use me for any help I might be as
I am more than willing to help out. My 5c collets are all in the "inch" system but I do have a few metric
collets as well so I know you could purchase a set of either kind. Let me know if I can be of any
assistance to you.

All the Best,

Burt
 
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Good day Burt, thanks so much for your valued reply. On the issue of the collets, I will contact the tool supplier here in Swaziland and suppliers in South Africa for 5C collets and if they are freely available I will go with them and copy as best I can the square collet holder you made, and I will try to make a hex holder as well.

On the topic of allumimun and Brass moulding, I have looked at a lot of web sites on this subject and I really would like to start moulding with the green sand meathod. I haven't come across any local website in S.Africa or Swaziland where I could find a supplier for the Green sand. As far as the burners (melting crucible), I have seen a number of ideas on the Net but they are predominently only for melting Alluminum. I have also watched some You Tube of Mr Pete222,(Tubalcain). I want to cast Alluminum blanks for "V" Belt pulleys, and other items as well, but I dont believe I have enough info from the Net to start Moulding parts as yet.

How about giving me some details on how to build a sutable burner that will burn old oil (preferably because it is easily available). LP Gas is also an option and perhaps LP Gas is necessary for melting Brass.
I understand that the sand used can be made from various ingredients, but I dont know what they are.
So I am very short on info for this venture
From they description of your Burners or Ovens, it would appear that they are commercially made.

Too bad about the -30 deg C. I cant even imagine what that is like. where I am we sometimes hit +45deg in the shade during summer. Otherwise, average between +30 and 35 deg C.

Kind regards Basil
 
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