- Joined
- Apr 23, 2018
- Messages
- 6,947
Then tape a banana to it and see what it sells for...
-
Welcome back Guest! Did you know you can mentor other members here at H-M? If not, please check out our Relaunch of Hobby Machinist Mentoring Program!
Old Circular Saw Blade - Smart Way To Remove Teeth
- Thread starter Shiseiji
- Start date
- Joined
- Sep 14, 2014
- Messages
- 746
Seeing as my goal in retirement is to avoid much of anything other than being with family and piddling in the shop, I'll happily leave crafting & marketing to others who might need the income far more than I do.
Was just up your way last weekend, picked up another 10" Craftsman table saw for $20. The pressed steel wings make great selves for magnetic bases, came with a working 1 hp motor (open case, can't have everything), table top for a grinding stand or welding table, and a mobile stand for my chop saw. And the junk guard for inspiration . One day I'll figure out what to with the 3/4" bar from the miter.
- Joined
- Jan 4, 2021
- Messages
- 3,116
Ideally the splitter should be the thickness of the cut width ≈ total set of the teeth. If you cut the teeth off, the splitter will be thinner than the set and if too thin can grab.
However: take the blade to your local water jet shop and have them do it: won't harden the steel and you won't risk damaging yourself. You could also give the a sketch of the profile you want and they can rough out a couple of them for to to finish.
- Joined
- Sep 14, 2014
- Messages
- 746
Thanks. Good excuse to see what's in the area. On thickness, FWIW, Shark Guard says:
"Our most popular option is .090 inch thickness. We recommend the .090” for anyone using both types of blades (thin kerf and standard kerf). It actually works well for both due to the area of the splitter surface. The most popular option for anyone not using thin kerf blades is the .105″. These are slightly thicker and may bolster support to the guard.
The kerf thicknesses of blades from what we have experienced are as follows:
- Thin Kerf — 091”-.098” Optimum splitter thickness we provide. .09”
- Standard Kerf — .110”-.118” Optimum splitter thickness we provide. .105”
- Full Kerf — always 1/8” or .125” Optimum splitter or riving knife thickness is .120” "
- Joined
- Apr 23, 2018
- Messages
- 6,947
A few years back I thinned a riving knife from .120 down to .090 by request from a friend. Cut .015 from both sides. Carbide face mill, it was a tough and dirty job on that hardened spring or blade steel, whatever it was. My inserts survived and I hit the dimension, but I'd never do that again. I was biting my nails too feverishly to take pictures. Grind it or forget it!
- Joined
- Sep 14, 2014
- Messages
- 746
Down the rabbit hole. Found many forum postings on possibility & opinions on using the blades for knives. Didn't spend a lot time on it, but found a 2003 sci.engr.metallurgy discussion where someone was trying to find a particular alloy. Perhaps some insight into what you dealt with & why it's probably not worth messing with in a home shop:
---------------
Mar 26, 2003, 3:00:20 PM
0186 is a grade of saw blade steel that we heat treat for one of our
customers. I hope to have some information shortly, regarding where the
steel is manufactured and from where it can be purchased. As I understand,
from a tech sheet we have on the material, the following information is
available:
Composition: Carbon - .64 / .75 %
Manganese - .40 / .60
Phosphorus - 0.025
Sulfur - 0.025
Silicon - .20 / .35
Ni - .70 / 1.00
Cr - .30 / .50
Mo - .08 / .15
Hardening temperature : 1500 - 1550 F, oil quench
Hardness: 60 / 64 HRC
Temper, 1 hour: 400 F - 60 HRC
600 F - 54 HRC
800 F - 47 HRC
1000 F - 40 HRC
1200 F - 30 HRC
One process, put blade in table saw with itfully lowered.
Clamp scrap plywood on top of table.
Turn on saw and raise through plywood.
Use portable grinder to grind off what sticks up.
Stop when done.
Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk
Clamp scrap plywood on top of table.
Turn on saw and raise through plywood.
Use portable grinder to grind off what sticks up.
Stop when done.
Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk
- Joined
- Jan 4, 2021
- Messages
- 3,116
You forgot a couple of steps:
Roll Table Saw Outside
One process, put blade in table saw with it fully lowered.
Clamp scrap plywood on top of table.
Turn on saw and raise through plywood.
Unplug Table Saw & Lock Blade (if they will reach under a running power mower they'll do anything!)
Cover Saw with Tarp, Keeping Clear of Blade
Use portable grinder to grind off what sticks up.
Stop when done.
- Joined
- Sep 14, 2014
- Messages
- 746
Actually my 12" cold saw made rather short work of one I got from the Habitat Resale store for $2 as a test. Picked one with a large gullet between sets of teeth, clamped it, and standing well clear of the line of fire, cut down through the gullet.
I have used the Craftsman crap splitter as a template retaining the 5/8" arbor hole. Idea is use a 5/8" bolt with grinder flange washers for extra support and hold it in a vise rather than clamping pliers. Given how the cold saw did, I gave the cut-off disc a try. Perfect being the enemy of the done, I'll grind the following end a little more square after verifying fit. 41° F in the garage, done for today.
I have used the Craftsman crap splitter as a template retaining the 5/8" arbor hole. Idea is use a 5/8" bolt with grinder flange washers for extra support and hold it in a vise rather than clamping pliers. Given how the cold saw did, I gave the cut-off disc a try. Perfect being the enemy of the done, I'll grind the following end a little more square after verifying fit. 41° F in the garage, done for today.
( truth is I'd love to be in WV , beautiful state , but riddled quite often )
