Old Circular Saw Blade - Smart Way To Remove Teeth

Shiseiji

Avid destroyer of many materials.
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Tried a search, maybe to simple but also simple to ask. Goal is to remove teeth and use the blades to fashion a table saw splitter and another for a magnetic lapping plate.

Tools available are angle grinder, cold saw, hot saw (oxy/acetylene), or make a mandrel and do it on the lathe. Suggestions?

TIA
 
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Wouldn't it be easier to just use a piece of steel or aluminum and cut it to the shape you want. I recall that Stumpy Nubs has a video on this.
 
Wouldn't it be easier to just use a piece of steel or aluminum and cut it to the shape you want. I recall that Stumpy Nubs has a video on this.
Quick search for .09" plate didn't turn up much. Blade - teeth is guaranteed correct thickness.
 
Use a torch to remove carbide, if you want. Then cut the teeth off with a skinny wheel. Don't be afraid to use a face shield when using a cutoff wheel. The fiberglass does fail sometimes. The projects sound a bit questionable....
 
Paint it up and sell it on Etsy or Pinterest ! People pay big bucks for old saw blades . :encourage:
Good thing they don't know blades are ~$2 USD at the Habit Resale store & a battery clock work is usually< $10 USD
 
Use a torch to remove carbide, if you want. Then cut the teeth off with a skinny wheel. Don't be afraid to use a face shield when using a cutoff wheel. The fiberglass does fail sometimes. The projects sound a bit questionable....
I have a very healthy respect for angle grinders & cut off blades after I had to use riggers tape to hold my lower thigh together. While the ED crew was impressed, I do not recommend it as an attention getter. Fantastically lucky, missed the knee, only hit muscle, and a plastic surgeon happened to be on site. Learned they are the best for sewing things up, only a scar as a reminder.

The micro splitters, while a good option, don't meet my primary goal of getting a usable guard on my 10" Craftsman table saw, hopefully on top of the splitter that has to be narrower than my thin blade saw kerf. The original splitter/guard were pretty much junk, they hung over the back of the saw on 2 aluminum castings. Newer saws mount the splitter or riving blade on the trunion. There is a possibility for this but I'll have to tear down the saw to do it. Saw needs to remain mobile & has short wings to fit in it's allocated space. So I'm trying to avoid the Pen State option though it's ~ 2/3 the cost of a $400 USD Shark Guard replacement spliter & guard. Did a little more research & found Shark Guard uses 11 gauge stainless, will see what I can find in 11 or 10 gauge.
 
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