Offshore Precision Levels

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petertha

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I'm about to chase down some taper cutting effect on my lathe & been doing reading on various validation & measuring methods. I suspect my stand has settled & I need to tweak one of the feet. Anyway, I was wondering if anyone had good/bad comments on these levels. I see them on Ebay & such, suspect they come from one locale & distributed under different names.

The big name levels are outside the budget for the few times I anticipate using, even used & who knows about calibration or how they were treated 7 stored etc.

https://www.accusizetools.com/master-precision-levels/

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Should have also mentioned they sell a master frame type as well, link below. Assuming the 2 styles have the same accuracy, I guess this style is more intended for validating vertical square measurements as opposed to just a basic horizontal leveling function like first link?
https://www.accusizetools.com/master-frame-spirit-levels/
 
You want to know the precision of any machinist level you are looking at. No numbers, no purchase. Be sure to properly understand the difference between accuracy, resolution, and repeatability, especially with electronic levels. Take care with what length level you get. Longer does not mean more accurate. Sometimes a long level won't fit where you need it. A too short level may not bridge gaps. The import ones are accurate, certainly good enough for leveling a lathe. Mine is 8" and is .0005" in 10", and it is fussy enough to use that I would not get one that is .0002" in 10", like the ad in your illustration. .001" in 10" is probably more than adequate enough for leveling our machines.
 
For what it's worth I set up my SB Heavy 10 using my Starrett precision level 98-12 and the lathe still cuts a taper .003" per 12". There is a book written by Harold Hall - Metal Lathe that describes how to true a lathe bed to cut straight. Well worth the money spent to purchase it.
 
Can you adjust the head stock on your lathe? My PM1340GT has adjustment screws that allow you to tweak the alignment. I did that on mine as leveling it didn't get the taper out. Oxtoolco on youtube shows the process in his setting up your lathe video. You turn a test bar (I used a 10" long by 1.5" dia steel bar) to find your amount of taper and then with an indicator on the end of the bar adjust the screws to move the head stock until you get 1/2 the amount of taper on the dial indicator. Skim cut the bar and measure the taper if any. Rinse and repeat until you are happy. The video shows the steps in detail so check it out.

I did level the lathe first and used a similar level as you show in the link.
 
I have one of those levels. Paid $77 on Amazon. Make sure you check calibration every time you use it.
 
ddickey said:
I have one of those levels. Paid $77 on Amazon. Make sure you check calibration every time you use it.
Click to expand...
I've had my level for quite a while and have gotten used to the fact that it always needs to be calibrated. I've even wondered if I was setting it improperly and causing it not to maintain its calibration longer.
 
The attached file may be of interest to some of you. With these sensitive levels, you sort of need an adjustable table with three feet. Mine is just a piece of 3/4" ply with T-nuts to hold some screws 120 degrees apart. Once leveled on this table, my precision level stays level for long periods of time.
 

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  • Engineers-Level-Calibration-Instructions.pdf
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petertha said:
Should have also mentioned they sell a master frame type as well, link below. Assuming the 2 styles have the same accuracy, I guess this style is more intended for validating vertical square measurements as opposed to just a basic horizontal leveling function like first link?
https://www.accusizetools.com/master-frame-spirit-levels/
Click to expand...
I bought the frame level, the adjust screws were crap impossible to use, I scrapped it as worthless
 
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