Observations On Table Saw Flatness

ericc

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I have been using pieces of granite countertops for things like marking and testing with vee blocks. There is a lot of commenting on the web about how unsuitable these things are and how the beginner should just get a cheap granite surface plate at Enco when they have their free shipping days. Recently, there was an estate sale in my neighborhood and someone bought a beat up old table saw and left the table. The seller convinced me to pay $5 and besides, I was curious about how flat it was. It looked flat. I held up a straightedge to it at the sale and did not see any light, so I bought it.

After I got it home, I ran a dial test indicator mounted on a stand over it. This cast iron table was way worse than a granite sink cutout!!! There was about a 0.010" variation over a 3" arc. Even worse, the indicator base did not lay flat. On close examination, there was light under a straightedge and there was a visible gap under one corner of the dial indicator stand. This thing is not flat! I took a junk wood chisel and carefully scraped it over the surface. A fine layer of brown rust got scraped off. It took a lot of care removing the rust, since the rust was not really loose. When a few square inches of rust was removed, the indicator showed less than 0.001" over the same 3" arc. In contrast, the sink cutout had no indicator motion for the same measurement.

There were two lessons learned from this experience. The cast iron table saw top is not always better than the free granite remodeling remnant. Not even close, this time! And second, even a tiny bit of apparently tight rust can really ruin a machine's precision. This gives me a new view of Craiglist ads which show mills with really rusty tables stored outside for sale for well over $1000. If the ways are severely rusted, the whole operation will be severely compromised.
 
I use a glass 24x24 3/4 table top...it is flat .0005

cost me 2 bucks at salvation army..
 
+1 on plate glass

I worked in the Geology Dept of a University and we used plate glass to lap rock samples for bonding to glass slides
 
Don't kid yourselves that granite countertops, floor tiles, or plate glass are in any way equal to a calibrated surface plate. They are probably fine for non critical work using a surface gage, scriber, and Dykem to lay something out to low tolerances. If you are going to use a height gage, a ground angle block, gage blocks, and tenths indicators, and need that sort of accuracy, then you are only hoping it will be OK. To do precision measuring, scraping work, or proper machine reconditioning you need a surface plate. And a surface plate from Craigslist is no better. I have heard good things about the import surface plates, and they are cheap, however I have also heard that the accuracy of them can be hit or miss, which again brings in the word "unknown." The freight on a surface plate can also be a deal breaker. I am using an old class AA surface plate, sat outdoors for years, yes, a Craigslist find. Standridge Granite is coming the first week in April to put it back to a known standard. At least two other machinists will also have their surface plates here so we can act as a single entity to share the mileage charge and to avoid the minimum invoice amount issue. I am really looking forward to it. I have good gage blocks, accurate 90 degree references, and .0001" measuring capability. The known accurate surface plate will complete the basics of my humble metrology department (!!!) to something known and useful, and guessing will be relegated to several digits after the decimal point. I am not an accuracy freak, I just want to KNOW what I am looking at within the KNOWN limitations of my tooling. I am also still happy with a yard stick and a crayon, depending on the job...
 
Table saw tops are not flat neither. My old Craftsman cast iron top table saw About a 1980 model had nearly a 1/32" dip in the middle of the top. Never could do very accurate work on it. Couldn't afford a Rockwell saw back then either. And still can't!
 
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