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Oldhenry1

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Hi everyone!
I just picked up a used Enco 105-1100 Mill/Drill. It's missing the Chuck. As near as I can tell, it has and R-8 taper on the spindle.
Does anyone know if this is the case? I'd like to order a chuck and get the right one the first time.
I'm looking forward to learning the ins and outs of basic machining.
 
Did you get any collets with it? You'll need a couple of those for holding endmills, and a chuck with a straight shaft like 3/8" or 1/2" so that you can
interchange endmills and chuck easily
mark
 
Welcome to the forum. We are all toolaholics here.

A chuck is good for drilling, but it isn't made for the stresses of milling sideways. You will need the chuck, but, as mentioned, collets or endmill holders will be needed. I would advise getting a chuck with an R8 mount (after you confirm that it is R8, not MT3) and either R8 endmill holders (in 3/8" and 1/2" - you will use those two the most), an R8 mounted collet chuck or a set of R8 collets.

I prefer the collet chuck. I found that the R8 collets, which fit directly into the spindle, can sometimes allow the endmill to slip. In that case, it will probably pull out deeper into the work.
 
Thanks guys,
Any and all help is greatly appreciated(like I said, this is all new to me) .
I got some smaller cutters with it but no collets or chuck so the hunt is on.
I've never heard of a collet chuck. It sounds like a great idea.
From everything I've been able to find on the net it should be an R8 taper. Is there a way to tell if it's R8 or MT3 without a tool to actually install and test fit?
I'm also trying to figure out how the the Drawbar needs to be. I can't bring the machine home until sometime next week.

I got a small 6x18 Craftsman Lathe from a friend recently (with tooling :) )who has a spare set of R8 collets that I'm trying to talk him out of.
 
Hi Old Henry,

A R8 has a long straight shaft with a very short taper with a narrow slot in the side, where as a Morse taper is long and runs down the full length.

As far as a drill chuck is concerned the chuck and the mandrel that it fits onto are physically two parts. The chuck will either be a screw fitting or have a tapered hole. This hole could be one of several tapers, B16 and Jacobs are the two most common. The B16 most likely from China. You will need a mandrel to suit both the mill taper and the chuck taper. It is unlikely that you will find a threaded mandrel to suit a threaded chuck.
 
Thanks BaronJ for the taper clarification. I should be able to feel the change at the transition if it's a R8 with my finger.
A Jacobs Chuck is what I'm after. I've had good luck with them.
 
Hi Old Henry,

If you see the two mandrels side by side the difference is easy to see.

As far a Jacobs chucks are concerned I believe they are all made in China now. I don't know any USA made ones.
 
You can Google 'R8 specifications' and 'MT3 specifications' to see diagrams of the two types. That will make it easier to 'see' with your fingers. If nothing else, you can borrow an R8 collet from your friend to see if it will fit in your spindle. Just be sure to rotate the collet so the index pin (if it's still there) can fit into the slot.
 
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