New to Milling, looking for tooling recommendations

great white

great white

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I've got a new CX600 (BF20, G0704, etc) on the way.

I have some tooling, but it's mostly just small end mills and an er32 collet holder that I used with my lathe.

I'm looking for some suggestions for a few basics I need to start practicing just general milling operations.

I've ordered and old B&S vice, which may or may not work after a resto.

I've ordered a set of R8 collets.

I've got an adjustable boring head on the way, although I'll need to change it to an R8 shank.

So, any suggestions? Perhaps a clamp kit or maybe a fly cutter?

I'm just looking to get started and develop a few skills on the mill. I can fill the "need" for "more stuff!!" follow later on......I just need some basics for now.
 
I have a CNC'd G0704.

You need a decent 4" milling vise. Decent, not crazy. I bought a $150 import one that is plenty good for me. A set of parallels would be a really good purchase to go with the vise. Don't go crazy, a set of 5 sizes, 3" across has lasted me 10 years. I wouldn't get anything more than a 10 size 4" wide parallels. The CNC style vises (flat sides) are nice because you can put them on their sides to gain 2" additional Z height on tall parts. Not commonly needed, but the G0704 is limited to 9" of Z clearance to the table.

This is the minimum I'd get: https://www.shars.com/products/workholding/vise/4-x-3-93-lock-down-precision-milling-machine-vise-1

Better: https://www.shars.com/products/workholding/vise/4-440v-cnc-milling-machine-vise-0-0004-1

Best: https://www.glacern.com/gpv_412

If machining steel, stick to 1/4" or smaller endmills. If aluminum, use 3/8" or smaller. These machines have relatively low rigidity and can't utilize larger cutter very well. They work, but you can machine faster with a smaller tool. HSS is fine for manual work. Polished carbide endmills give top performance in milling aluminum with great finish.


You'll need a drill chuck. I prefer a 1/32-1/2" on a 3/4" shank. Put it in a 3/4" R8 collet. Saves some tool change height. I prefer keyless over keyed, but both are fine. You need to buy the shank separately for most chucks.

www.shars.com

1/32-1/2" JT33 Heavy Duty Keyless Drill Chuck

www.shars.com www.shars.com

You'll eventually want a 115pc drill index. This is used on both the mill and lathe. These are expensive so there are two trains of thought. Buy a cheap index ($200) and replace the drills with high end drills as they break. Or spend more ($400) and get a good set to start with. I did the former, but I find I am not good about buying the replacements and they are missing when I need them.

www.shars.com

1/16 - 1/2 X 64Th #1 - #60 A-Z 115 Pc HSS Bright Finish Jobber Drill Set

www.shars.com www.shars.com

A clamping kit will likely be needed to hold your vise. It will also become invaluable when you move away from only machining square stock in a vise. 3/8-16 is the bolt size you need for the table. You may need to mill the T-nuts a smidge to get them to fit correctly. Some fit fine, some don't.

58 Pc Pro-Series 7/16" T-Slot Clamping Kit Bridgeport Mill Set Up Set 3/8-16 - - Amazon.com

58 Pc Pro-Series 7/16" T-Slot Clamping Kit Bridgeport Mill Set Up Set 3/8-16 - - Amazon.com
www.amazon.com

Fly cutter is optional. Just faster than facing with endmills. It really exacerbates any issues with column tram.

You'll need these items for measuring (at a minimum): 6" calipers, 0.0005" Dial test indicator, probably a 1" micrometer. Measuring tools are the ONLY thing I go out of my way to buy name brand. They last much longer and just give you a better quality of life.

www.shars.com

.060" Swiss Type Horizontal Dial Test Indicator

www.shars.com www.shars.com

This is the gold standard: https://www.mscdirect.com/browse/tnpla/06442826?cid=ppc-google-Smart+Shopping+-+MCO+-+Measuring+&+Inspecting&mkwid=|dc&pcrid=534899372863&rd=k&product_id=06442826&gclid=CjwKCAjw-8qVBhANEiwAfjXLrsqdk6q09iowoNgtg4ziIWEG2_iYwQlpFzxMS7HIuh98psXo61s5oRoCNjkQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

I wouldn't recommend any other caliper than these: https://www.amazon.com/Mitutoyo-Advanced-Absolute-Digital-Caliper/dp/B00IG46NL2?th=1

EDIT: Add an edge finder to the list. I prefer an electronic one with a spring loaded ball tip, but any garden variety works. The ball tip lets you center on curved surfaces, less common but handy.
 
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Edited above post with lots of links.
 
Here is an example of how a CNC stye vise can be flipped on its side to hold tall parts for extra Z clearance:

1655905338247.png
 
I'd add an edge finder and a set of parallels to the list given by others. I use 1-2-3 blocks for setting up repetitive works (flush stock to the edge of the vise jaw). Also use center/spotting drills. Stubby drills were mentioned above, nicer than jobber length on the mill. Maybe an Indicol indicator holder and indicator for checking tram, setting the vise square to the table, and finding the center of a boss/hole.

Bruce
 
Sounds to me that you have everything you need to get started. Don't just go buy stuff. You might never use it. Only buy what you need for a project.

How big is the B&S vise? 4" vises seem to work best on these small mills. Anything bigger is too big to be practical. I bought a 4" vise from Shars.

I would stick with the ER32 collets. You can find an ER32 collet chuck with an R8 shaft. R8 collets require you to loosen the drawbar every time you need to change a collet. That is inconvenient for me. I have to stand on a stool to do that with my RF30 clone. And R8 collets have a very limited clamping range. Meaning you will need lots of collets compared to the ER32 collets you already have. I also don't use a drill chuck on mine. Takes up too much Z distance on the quill. You want to avoid having to move the head to change tooling. I have an X/Y vise on one of my drill presses that I use when I need to drill lots of holes.

I use the longest tool concept when starting a new project. I learned this in a video by the Lazy Machinist if I recall correctly. When planning a project I figure out all of the tooling that I will need to use. Then I set the height of the head so I can change to the longest tool without moving the head. After awhile I realized that I was rarely having to move the head. Looked at all of the tooling that I use. With a little bit of trial and error I was able to set the head so I don't have to move the head to change tooling. Since I did this I have never had to move the head to change tooling. This goes back to why I recommend using ER32 collets. On the longer tools, typically drill bits, you can insert the tool in the collet before before screwing it on to the collet chuck. I mostly use 3/8 and 1/2 collets. These collets have their own collet nuts. I have several more collet nuts that I use for the different size collets I might use on a project. I find that it is quicker and easier to change the ER32 collets than fiddling with the drawbar.

I use primarily 3/8 and 1/2 end mills. Smaller end mills seem to break too easily. You can't take big cuts on these small mills no matter what size end mill you use. I know people are going to respond about the big cuts that they make. I am just relaying my experience. Yours will probably differ from mine.

Have fun with your new mill.
 
mickri said:
Sounds to me that you have everything you need to get started. Don't just go buy stuff. You might never use it. Only buy what you need for a project.

How big is the B&S vise? 4" vises seem to work best on these small mills. Anything bigger is too big to be practical. I bought a 4" vise from Shars.

I would stick with the ER32 collets. You can find an ER32 collet chuck with an R8 shaft. R8 collets require you to loosen the drawbar every time you need to change a collet. That is inconvenient for me. I have to stand on a stool to do that with my RF30 clone. And R8 collets have a very limited clamping range. Meaning you will need lots of collets compared to the ER32 collets you already have. I also don't use a drill chuck on mine. Takes up too much Z distance on the quill. You want to avoid having to move the head to change tooling. I have an X/Y vise on one of my drill presses that I use when I need to drill lots of holes.

I use the longest tool concept when starting a new project. I learned this in a video by the Lazy Machinist if I recall correctly. When planning a project I figure out all of the tooling that I will need to use. Then I set the height of the head so I can change to the longest tool without moving the head. After awhile I realized that I was rarely having to move the head. Looked at all of the tooling that I use. With a little bit of trial and error I was able to set the head so I don't have to move the head to change tooling. Since I did this I have never had to move the head to change tooling. This goes back to why I recommend using ER32 collets. On the longer tools, typically drill bits, you can insert the tool in the collet before before screwing it on to the collet chuck. I mostly use 3/8 and 1/2 collets. These collets have their own collet nuts. I have several more collet nuts that I use for the different size collets I might use on a project. I find that it is quicker and easier to change the ER32 collets than fiddling with the drawbar.

I use primarily 3/8 and 1/2 end mills. Smaller end mills seem to break too easily. You can't take big cuts on these small mills no matter what size end mill you use. I know people are going to respond about the big cuts that they make. I am just relaying my experience. Yours will probably differ from mine.

Have fun with your new mill.
Click to expand...
Great advice. I went on a buying spree after watching tons and tons of youtube vids. After I was done Larping as Abom I have found I mainly use the basics. I also rarely use my ER32 collets and just use the R8 stuff. I also have a 4" vice and it has been more than adequate.
 
Have you decided what you are going to make? Let that determine what you need
-M
 
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