Need more real estate between centers

tmenyc

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Oct 18, 2018
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No, this isn't another "I need a bigger shop" post...although it's true. The real estate I need is at the end of the workpiece. My work is in restoring vintage fountain pens, which involves a fair amount of parts fabrication; in fact, my Logan 820 was purchased for this purpose. Inappropriate as it may be in some ways for this use, I love it, have gotten it to work really well, and am now usually fabricating the parts I need in ebonite or acetyl and making specialty tools, usually in brass.
(First, a commercial: all of my HSS tools, which get the vast majority of playing time, are the result of Mikey's method and his patience as I learned how to grind and hone them.)

Much of what I'm turning has OD less than .300", OAL 1-2", and I'm generally working in a .002-.004 tolerance range. The issue I'm having is that getting access to the front of the workpiece is often a big challenge because it's skinnier than any center I have. In the picture you can see a center I made of 12L14 that is held in the tailstock, because the standard 2MT dead center is far too wide. I'm using the aloris extension tool holder, which helps a lot, but doesn't help me reach the end of the work. So often I will face and spot it right in at the chuck (I usually use the Beall chuck with ER32, as here; it's much easier for close in work like this), then move out as far as I need, but even 1-2" OAL is far too long to not have deflection when OD is only .200", as in this piece.
Is there something I'm missing here? Is there a rule about how far out of the tool holder I can push a tool, which also helps? Would making an even skinnier center work well or be too weak to prevent deflection?
When I'm turning ebonite, I use a tool made for the purpose and adjust its angle to face back to the tailstock, decreasing cutting forces on the soft stuff with really thin cuts. I can usually sneak the head of that tool, at a long angle, right in to the head of the work with a tiny bit of space to spare. More room to move would also be helpful there.

tme lathe1.jpeg

Thanks for the advice!
Tim
 
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... make yourself a 'skinny centre' I made mine out of 1/2" 4140 PH OD ground, and turned it .220 for .300 with a 60 degree on the front. Great for teeny tiny work.

Another way is to grind your tool wiht a 60 degree back rake. (from the top, on the right side) since you are turning brass, this would allow you to take cuts right up to the centre.
 
Dabbler -- you're comfortable with .300 OD? Mine is .400, I'd love to take another 100+ off it. It already has the 60 degree front.
On the back rake, I thought a tool for brass didn't need back rake; but it would function well with it?
thanks
Tim
 
You turn it to whatever is convenient for you... The back rake is for clearing the centre. It wouldn't work for steel, as the cutting point is too fragile.
 
Dabbler,
Right, thanks. Wouldn't dream of cutting steel that way.
Benny, really? I'll look it up!
Tim
 
The other approach is to make a .500 center, and then mill a flat on the face toward the tool, so you have a D-shaped center, with the flat not quite to the point.

edited to add: basically what @benmychree said.
 
Half centres are found on every footstock for a rotary table and indexer...
 
Here is a drawing from the Rivett catalog showing the selection of centers they offered for their lathes.

Second one down shows a half center like John described.

centers.jpg

Sherline sells a pool cue center, which I think resembles Dabblers suggestion. You only need to make the skinny part long enough to give you the clearance you need.

1623971820059.png
 
This is the live center I use when things are close.16239751039971878113544.jpg
 
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