Need help deciphering a motor plate and sizing a vfd.

[D.sebens]

I recently acquired a bp clone and the motor plate has been scrubbed pretty hard. I dont know what the stamped numbers are for, maybe rebuild stuff? I removed the paper and was able to find it is classified as 2 hp 3 phase. Looks like 230V is 5.8 amps and 460V is 2.9 amps? Does that sound right?

The 230 and 460 wiring has been removed. I took off the cover and found the wires labeled XYZ together, Black wire goes to U and UU wires, White goes to V and VV wires, and Red goes to W and WW wires. Is this enough information to find out if it is wired for 230V?

I am going single phase 230, what size VFD do I need? Are their HP ratings assuming 3ph in to the VFD or single phase?

 

[DavidR8]

If you're going single phase then no VFD is required.

 

[D.sebens]

If you're going single phase then no VFD is required.

I thought that was the time it was required? I thought the options were static, variable, or rotary for phase converting? To clarify I was planning on running the 3 phase motor on single phase

 

[DavidR8]

I am going single phase 230, what size VFD do I need? Are their HP ratings assuming 3ph in to the VFD or single phase?

This is what gave me the impression you were putting a single phase 230v motor on it thus no VFD required.
If you are keeping the 2hp, 230v 3-phase motor then I'd suggest a 3hp VFD with a 230v single-phase input.
Others with way more experience with VFD sizing will chime in I'm sure.

 

[D.sebens]

This is what gave me the impression you were putting a single phase 230v motor on it thus no VFD required.
If you are keeping the 2hp, 230v 3-phase motor then I'd suggest a 3hp VFD with a 230v single-phase input.
Others with way more experience with VFD sizing will chime in I'm sure.

Sorry that wasn’t clear I meant my input voltage.

 

[mksj]

Seems like 3 phase motor wired for 230VAC. A 2 Hp VFD with an output current of at least 6A in HD (Heavy Duty mode which is constant torque), you want a VFD that is single phase input 230VAC. So something like the Teco L510-202-H1-U 2 HP, 230 Volts, 1 Phase input and an 7.5A output. It will need to be run off of a minimum 20A breaker 230VAC, typical would be a 30A breaker (you can check the manual). The Hitachi WJ200-015SF is also commonly used but a bit more expensive, Teco is easier to read the manual/install for a mill application. If you have a Reeves drive, then I usually recommend using that to do the major speed adjustments, if a pulley head I would operate the motor in the 30-75Hz range, I would set the VFD carrier frequency to no higher than 8kHz.

 

[D.sebens]

Seems like 3 phase motor wired for 230VAC. A 2 Hp VFD with an output current of at least 6A in HD (Heavy Duty mode which is constant torque), you want a VFD that is single phase input 230VAC. So something like the Teco L510-202-H1-U 2 HP, 230 Volts, 1 Phase input and an 7.5A output. It will need to be run off of a minimum 20A breaker 230VAC, typical would be a 30A breaker (you can check the manual). The Hitachi WJ200-015SF is also commonly used but a bit more expensive, Teco is easier to read the manual/install for a mill application. If you have a Reeves drive, then I usually recommend using that to do the major speed adjustments, if a pulley head I would operate the motor in the 30-75Hz range, I would set the VFD carrier frequency to no higher than 8kHz.

Thank you for that information! I think I have a Reeves drive. That’s the vari speed adjustment right? I have a 30a circuit nearby to it that I was hoping to use so that’s great to know.

 

[D.sebens]

@mksj do I need to order any thing else with this? I see they offer a controller is this needed to program?

 

[mksj]

The VFD's are programmed via the control panel, so nothing else needed to program/operate the VFD. Some people will add a remote keypad (Teco, JN5-CU) to operate the VFD, but it is much easier and less expensive to get some switch gear to remotely operate the run, stop and reverse commands as well as speed adjust with a 2K linear potentiometer if you need that. On the mill I recommend what they call 3 wire control, which uses a momentary NC switch for stop, NO switch for the run and a sustained 2 position switch for the forward reverse (reverse connects to input 3). You want a power disconnect switch to turn off the VFD when not in use and an enclosure to prevent chips from getting into it (unless you get a sealed version of the VFD). Alternative is 2 wire control which uses a 3 way maintained switch with the center is off, risk is machine can start up if you leave the switch in a run mode.

 

[D.sebens]

One more question. Unsure if you can answer but I’ll ask. Electrical enclosures are really expensive for a metal box. What makes them special? Is there any creative ideas for a cheaper box? I saw there’s air gap measurements for the box and vfd.