Need change gear help with a Vevor model YS-1835-A mini lathe!

[6Sally5]

Hello all. Brand new to metal lathes. I am making my first attempt at threading, but Vevor’s manual is next to worthless for any kind of explanation or guidance. My lathe came with the metal change gear set. I thought I’d try making a 1/4-20 bolt. The manual and the label on the case say the gear setup needs to be a 40-tooth on A, a 65-tooth at B, nothing a C (?), and a 55-tooth at D. There are no 65 or 55 tooth gears in the set or even on the lathe. Somebody out there must have this model and has figured this out. Help!
Thanks y’all in advance!

 

[markba633csi]

I would try to contact the vendor and ask about this and if you can't resolve it then return the machine. Contact your CC company. It could be this machine has both the wrong manual and an incorrect threading chart, or you need to purchase extra gears for imperial threading.
We try to steer people away from this brand but the price is sometimes too good to resist.
They often come with a variety of problems and the parts situation and service after the sale are pretty bad, we've heard
Not a good machine for a beginner. Grizzly would be a better choice

 

[6Sally5]

I have contacted them today…waiting fir a reply. When the machine was delivered, it had been poorly crated. The lathe broke loose from the shipping bolts, so it was free to fly around in the crate…resulting in all kinds of sheetmetal damage and the loosening of every bolt and screw. I sent pictures and spoke with a Temu service rep. They returned my money and said I didn’t have to return the lathe. So I really can’t complain too much…I got a $500 lathe for free.

 

[Jim F]

I have contacted them today…waiting fir a reply. When the machine was delivered, it had been poorly crated. The lathe broke loose from the shipping bolts, so it was free to fly around in the crate…resulting in all kinds of sheetmetal damage and the loosening of every bolt and screw. I sent pictures and spoke with a Temu service rep. They returned my money and said I didn’t have to return the lathe. So I really can’t complain too much…I got a $500 lathe for free.

No, you got $500 of scrap that you will put $1k into........

 

[markba633csi]

I guess you'll have to try gears in various combinations and see what you get- It would help if you could determine if it has a metric or imperial leadscrew- my money is on metric
There are gear calculator programs online that might help also
Comparing your machine with similar Grizzly models too. They have pretty good documentation

 

[VicHobbyGuy]

Does it look like this?


http://www.yishoumachinery.com/en/pd.jsp?recommendFromPid=0&id=19&fromMid=311

That's a pretty standard 7x14 mini lathe made by RealBull.
I had one much like it, and after some 'tune-ups' it worked fine.
Plastic change gears work fine on those lathes, and can be made easily on a 3D printer. The files are online; gears are very easy to make suing CAD like OnShape (there's a plug-in), if that interests you.
Check the bore on the change gears - it may be different than the bore on the change gears for the more common Sieg 7x lathes sold by Grizzly, Harbor Freight, LittleMachineshop (LMS) etc. You can get Sieg gears from LMS, and 'everywhere' online.
Change gear calculator is at the LMS website, BUT to use the calculator you need to know whether your lathe has a metric (1.5mm) or 16TPI Imperial leadscrew.
https://littlemachineshop.com/reference/change_gears.php
My Vevor had a metric leadscrew. Since your lathe chart is calling for the 40/55 gear combo to get to 20 TPI, it has a metric leadscrew. It probably doesn't have a threading dial?

LMS also has operating manuals.

If you aren't allergic to Facebook, there are a couple of good 7x lathe groups there. More knowledgeable (about Chinese 7x lathes) crowd over there, too.

 

[VicHobbyGuy]

The manual and the label on the case say the gear setup needs to be a 40-tooth on A, a 65-tooth at B, nothing a C (?), and a 55-tooth at D. There are no 65 or 55 tooth gears in the set or even on the lathe.

The 40 and 55 are the gears you need. The 65 is just an idler and you could probably use a 60 in that position if you can move things around on the banjo and get them all to mesh.
Right now you have the stock 'power feed' change gear setup 20-80/20-80 installed. You can buy (or 3D print) 'slow feed' gears to slow down the power feed rate, when you decide you want that.

 

[WobblyHand]

If you tell us the bore of the gear, it's thickness, and it's module, it's possible to design a gear to print. Can you measure the diameter of one of your gears and tell us how many teeth it has? From that, we can determine the module. tip diameter = module * ( 2 + number of teeth)

For instance, your 60 tooth gear. module = tip diameter/( 2 + 60 ).

 

[6Sally5]

I guess you'll have to try gears in various combinations and see what you get- It would help if you could determine if it has a metric or imperial leadscrew- my money is on metric
There are gear calculator programs online that might help also
Comparing your machine with similar Grizzly models too. They have pretty good documentation

Thanks Mark. Good idea.

 

[6Sally5]

The 40 and 55 are the gears you need. The 65 is just an idler and you could probably use a 60 in that position if you can move things around on the banjo and get them all to mesh.
Right now you have the stock 'power feed' change gear setup 20-80/20-80 installed. You can buy (or 3D print) 'slow feed' gears to slow down the power feed rate, when you decide you want that.

Thanks very much for the great suggestions! My SIL has a 3D printer and he’s pretty dang smart.