- Joined
- Sep 19, 2012
- Messages
- 3,063
My church's A.W.A.N.A. kids group is having a pinewood derby race this weekend to come. I just broke mine out of the box and headed to the shop (Iv had it for about 2 months:shush. Anyway I started on the band saw a knocked off any thing that didnt look cool (sorry no before shots) then I broke out the dremel and a sanding drum and did some blending. I finished with a jitterbug palm sander, and sanded up to 220 grit for a smooth surface. I rigged up a high teck spray booth (my shop stool with a plastic bag wraped over it) and shot some color to it. I started with green but decided to go orange!
Next I moved on to the wheels, I deburred the axels(had to use a drill in the vice, Lathe chuck wont go that small) and buffed them with the dremel until you could see a reflection in them. I buffed the inside of the wheels with a pipe cleaner, and smoothed and buffed the contact surface last. the wheel will continue to spin on the axel for 20 seconds, after you stop appliying power. Im going to pick up some graphite tomorrow, and see if that improves the slick situation any. i have to stay under 5 oz, so im going to make a bore, with a plug in the under body, so i can add or remove shotgun shot to get as close to my target weight.
Next I moved on to the wheels, I deburred the axels(had to use a drill in the vice, Lathe chuck wont go that small) and buffed them with the dremel until you could see a reflection in them. I buffed the inside of the wheels with a pipe cleaner, and smoothed and buffed the contact surface last. the wheel will continue to spin on the axel for 20 seconds, after you stop appliying power. Im going to pick up some graphite tomorrow, and see if that improves the slick situation any. i have to stay under 5 oz, so im going to make a bore, with a plug in the under body, so i can add or remove shotgun shot to get as close to my target weight.