My Free Bridgeport

Provincial

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Dec 9, 2021
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Things have been rather hectic for me lately, and I haven't had time to check out estate and garage sales. One item turned up that I had to jump on.

A friend keeps in touch with a machine shop his family used to own. He has a Bridgeport Type 1 mill, and expressed an interest in a part off a derelict Bridgeport they had back in a corner of their fab shop. They said he could have the part only if he hauled off the whole machine! He called me and asked if I would haul off he machine so he could get the part, which is a bearing housing on the end of the table.

When he told the shop that we would haul off the mill, they moved it out of the corner and told us to pick it up within three days! It was stored on a pallet. I was able to make time to swing by with my trailer and they put it on with a forklift, pushing it up the center over the axles with another pallet and a couple of 4x4's. This left the mill in a hard-to-reach spot. I was able to pry the pallet over to one side and could barely reach far enough with my forklift to pick it up using a chain through the lifting eye on the ram and a web strap under the head to level the lifting pressures. I cleared the fender by a half inch when backing out.

Once I got it into the shop, I started checking things out. I knew that one end of the lead screw had snapped off, and moving parts around allowed me to check check that the screw was not bent and the x-axis backlash was .040 without trying to adjust the nut. The y-axis backlash is less than .010, and both axes move smoothly and with little drag. The table turned out to be in pretty good shape, with only a couple of shallow hits from cutters. Probably better than most tables. The oil film on the quill had dried out and took a little coaxing to break free, as did the spindle bearings. Both move smoothly and easily now, and a light application of spindle oil has helped. No evidence of roughness in the spindle bearings!

The motor spins freely by hand, and the feed freed up and works full travel, with the kick-out functioning properly. At first, the driven pulley didn't want to rotate, but an application of Kroil and soaking overnight freed it up. Now both the v-pulley and the timing belt/back gear system rotate freely.

This left the cam for the high-low dog clutch as the only control still frozen up. I soaked it with Kroil and today removed the two cam follower screws that ride in the slots. I then carefully pried up on the cam ring and worked it off. There was some corrosion between the aluminum head casting and the cam ring, which I'll clean up and lubricate before reassembling it. The dog clutch assembly moves freely up and down in the head casting now.

I'm not far from being able to try it out under power. I'll set up a pigtail to plug into my 3-phase 240V power and first try the motor, then the direct and back gear drives.

If things work out, I may try to fix the lead screw by making a new end and heat shrinking it into a reamed hole in the end of the old lead screw. The damage is on the end where the bearing "floats", so it will not take thrust loads, only the torque of the handle being turned.

Here are some photos my friend took and sent me:
IMG_20221124_100055.jpg
IMG_20221124_100035.jpg
IMG_20221124_100119.jpg
 
Even with all that I think you did pretty fair. Hope to see if you get the motor fired up.
 
Today I made some more progress. I cleaned up the corrosion that was binding the Direct/Back Gear cam on the head. I scraped off the buildup of white powder and used a stainless wire brush to clean down to bare metal. I wire brushed the inside of the clutch cam and lubricated the moving parts. I had to lift up on the step pulley to get the pins installed back in the cam slots. The pins do not reach the end of the slot, and they are far short of the end of the slot when in the Back Gear position. There is a stack of shop-made brass shims between the clutch cam and the aluminum top casting. I assume they are meant to place the dog clutch in a position that accommodates clearance in both positions. Everything spins over by hand with no drag or noise, so I expect it to power up well.
Drive Clutch Direct:
Drive Clutch Direct.jpg
Drive Clutch in Back Gear:
Drive Clutch Back Gear.jpg

Another point of progress was getting the ram to move. I put a large bar clamp from the front of the column to the back of the ram. I used only hand pressure on the clamp screw, and about the time I maxed out my twisting force, the ram emitted a "pop" and moved forward! I shifted it forward about an inch, scraped the dovetails with a razor blade to remove rust and built-up crud, wiped it with a WD-40-soaked rag, and applied way oil. I then used the clamp to move it rearward nearly full travel, then repeated the cleaning and lubrication. After a cycle back forward, and cleaning/lubricating a larger area there, I was able to move it rearward full travel and clean/lubricate the rest of the dovetail. Now it moves back and forth full travel smoothly and with reasonable effort.
Clamp Applying Pressure to the Ram:
Ram with Clamp 1.jpg
Ram with Clamp 2.jpg
You can see my witness mark movement in the first photo if you enlarge it.

This evening I was able to clean and lubricate the ways on the knee y- and z-axis. They both work smoothly. I'll be cleaning and lubricating the the knee lift screw tomorrow.

It is actually a lot of fun to bring this machine back from the tomb. It will never be like new, but should work fine if not asked to hold precision tolerances on the x- and y-axes. The head and ram seem to be in good shape except for appearance. I believe that there is plenty of life left in this old girl!
 
Great progress! If I may make a suggestion. Completely remove the table and saddle, and if you have an engine hoist or something similar, the knee as well. Not only will it allow you to thoroughly clean and inspect the ways; it will allow you to most importantly clean out and confirm the function of the oil passages for the ways. Sitting for that long, odds are they're gummed up, and if this is an older machine with Zerks for the oil ( they are not grease fittings ) there's a chance that a prior owner has pumped grease in them. No better time than now to break it down to it's basic components. H&W has several great videos on table/saddle/knee removal and reassembly. https://www.youtube.com/@hwmachinerepairandrebuildi674/videos
 
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Yes, it has zerks. Thank you for the insight. I agree that it could have been greased, but the residue doesn't resemble old grease, and maybe I'm lucky.

I'll be getting the head working first. I want to see if it works as well as it seems to when turning things by hand. If the head is good to go, then I'll work on the other moving parts. I'll have to pull the x-axis screw no matter what I do. I have an Autocrane on my service truck, which has been a real boost to my capabilities.

I'm working on getting a jib crane set up in the shop. It will be sort of free-standing using a 10" schedule 40 steel pipe for a column, with a big 7/8" steel plate base and I-beam braces. I need to get advice from an engineer on how to tie it to the floor and the building steel frame. It may be in use before I get to pulling the big parts off the mill.
 
Makes sense to be sure there are no expensive show stoppers in the head before diving into the chassis, good plan! Having your truck crane and/or the jib crane will be a huge help. Push pumps are available from H&W, McMaster-Carr, etc to oil the Zerks, or if you weld, it's pretty easy to convert a small grease gun to pump oil, which is what I did. When I went through my circa 1978 Lagun, the oil lines in the table were hard, brittle, and clogged up. It was hybrid and had a one shot oil pump for the table/saddle/nut, and Zerks for the knee. Your's may be all Zerks? I also modded the XY nut to accept a direct feed oil line, rather than the drip feed from the factory. There's a video for that on H&W as well. Hope the head is sound, and you're able to bring this mill back to life!
 
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