My first lathe! What model is it? Pics!

[stevos758]

Finally picked up my first lathe! It will need some elbow grease but I think I got a nice little unit! Soaking in a coating of WD-40 since I put in the garage last night.

Got a box full of the gears and doo dads I still need to sort out. Came with a manual but the mice must have gotten to it before I could and destroyed it. I cant seem to find a definite identification marking either.

If anyone can tell me what model it is that would be awesome! I am thinking from what I have read so far it's possibly a 10-D?

My first order of business will be to clean up and inspect everything.

Enough talk more pics!

For those of you that don't want to read and just see pics here is the full gallery.
http://imgur.com/a/SkdG4

 

[Ulma Doctor]

i could be mistaken, but it looks like an Atlas TH42 (10" x 42" bed) maybe a 10f?
if there is a tag it will probably be down by the tailstock end of the lathe on the vertical face of the base of the lathe just under the ways

 

[Wierd Harold]

That looks like a V42 as that is the vertical drive and babbit bearings. I have the same lathe.

 

[Mondo]

Welcome to the forum!


My! That's an old one! An oldie but a goodie I'm sure!

I agree, that is a V42.
V for Verticle countershaft configuration. Verticle meaning the countershaft is almost directly above the spindle as opposed to horizontal configuration that puts the countershaft behind the spindle.
42 is the length of the bed in inches.

The V42 is included in the 10F series.
10 for 10 inch swing - largest diameter material you can turn over the ways.
F for Forward/Reverse leadscrew (I think) - has the instant-direction-change gearbox on the leadscrew.

Your lathe has Babbit bearings as evidenced by the bearing caps and capscrews securing the spindle in the headstock. These bearings require occaisional adjustment. Occaisional meaning maybe once in your lifetime. When I bought my 1934-35 vintage at the end of 2008 I had to take one .002 shim out of the original shim packs on one side of each the front and rear bearing caps to remove excess spindle play. Not bad for a machine that was 70+ years old!

For a basic manual and parts list find this document in the downloads section of this forum: "Atlas Lathe 10 10F Series Parts.pdf"

Enjoy!

 

[chips&more]

Your lathe has Babbit bearings as evidenced by the bearing caps and capscrews securing the spindle in the headstock. These bearings require occaisional adjustment. Occaisional meaning maybe once in your lifetime. When I bought my 1934-35 vintage at the end of 2008 I had to take one .002 shim out of the original shim packs on one side of each the front and rear bearing caps to remove excess spindle play. Not bad for a machine that was 70+ years old![/QUOTE]

Hi and just curious, just before you removed the shims. Did your lathe have any unusual problems? Like maybe chatter? And if so, is the chatter gone now?

 

[stevos758]

Awesome! Thanks for the info!

Ill get all the gears cleaned up and I'm sure ill need help setting those up. Not even sure everything is in the boxes yet.

Stay tuned for clean up pics later this week!

Going to buy some evaporust for the 4 jaw tonight.

 

[Mondo]

Your lathe has Babbit bearings as evidenced by the bearing caps and capscrews securing the spindle in the headstock. These bearings require occaisional adjustment. Occaisional meaning maybe once in your lifetime. When I bought my 1934-35 vintage at the end of 2008 I had to take one .002 shim out of the original shim packs on one side of each the front and rear bearing caps to remove excess spindle play. Not bad for a machine that was 70+ years old!

Hi and just curious, just before you removed the shims. Did your lathe have any unusual problems? Like maybe chatter? And if so, is the chatter gone now?[/QUOTE]

When I first acquired the lathe it was dirty and dusty, and needed a thorough cleaning. I made the shim adjustment as part of a general overhaul before I made any attempt at useing it.

I am sure that worn bearings will contribute to chatter. The test is to yank up and down on the spindle or mounted chuck. (Power disconnected, of course!) Any motion that you can feel is probably enough to indicate time for adjustment. To verify set up a dial indicator and measure any up and down movement. .001 is about the limit. Removing one .002 layer of shim from one side of the front bearing cap will reduce the clearence by .001. Check the rear (gear) end of the spindle also and make similar adjustment. Remove as few layers as necessary to achieve a snug fit. There should be a light drag when turning the spindle by hand with the belts fully loosened.

Remember the shims are LAYERED - 5 layers of .002 brass soldered together in a pack, one pack under each side of each bearing cap. A layer can be separated using a pick or point of an Exacto knife then peeled using small pliers.

Another test is to grap a mounted chuck and see if you can move the spindle axially end-to-end. If so you need to tighten up the adjusting nut on the gear end of the spindle.

The procedures are discussed on the Manual of Lathe Operations and Machinist Tables.

 

[stevos758]

This is good stuff! I'll pull on mine tonight and see how bad it is. I don't think it moved too much when I picked it up.

 

[Bill C.]

Awesome! Thanks for the info!

Ill get all the gears cleaned up and I'm sure ill need help setting those up. Not even sure everything is in the boxes yet.

Stay tuned for clean up pics later this week!

Going to buy some evaporust for the 4 jaw tonight.

Nice to see someone using these old machines. When I was in high school they have a buch of South Bend lathes, not quite the sames as yours. What they have in common is the gear change. I noticed the adjustable idler bar. You don't see many today that use that system. There should be a chart at tells you what size gears to use for the proper feed or thread. I think the idler can be any size the fills the gap between the two main gears. Also be sure all gears are in full contact with each other with a little movement (play) in the gear train. Put a couple drops of oil on them and close the cover before turning on the lathe, so you don't get oil slung on you.

 

[stevos758]

Nice to see someone using these old machines. When I was in high school they have a buch of South Bend lathes, not quite the sames as yours. What they have in common is the gear change. I noticed the adjustable idler bar. You don't see many today that use that system. There should be a chart at tells you what size gears to use for the proper feed or thread. I think the idler can be any size the fills the gap between the two main gears. Also be sure all gears are in full contact with each other with a little movement (play) in the gear train. Put a couple drops of oil on them and close the cover before turning on the lathe, so you don't get oil slung on you.

Thanks for the input!

Ha! What cover! : )

It does have a sling guard though!