My 10F and a couple of questions

[Bellers]

Hello, new member here.

I posted a breif introduction yesterday and mentioned that I could do with a bit of advice with my old 10F.
It was on eBay at the right price and relatively local too (which is a rarity here) but there were many pieces missing when I bought it last year.

I have no plans on restoring it and I'm not too fussed about having every part it originally came with so long as it will do what I need/want it to.

Here it is in its current state:


It originally didn't have the compound slide. Since parts are pretty rare here in the UK I had to have one imported from the states (mylittlemachineshop.com I think) for half the price I paid for the lathe.

I've sourced myself a suitable leadscrew, bearing and new apron for it and am planning on fitting a DC motor to provide power feed rather than screw cutting capability.

The bearing I'm fairly sure is the correct part:




but it doesn't fit the bed because of this pin fitted between the two mounting holes:



Could someone advise whether this is normal? (I can't imagine it is!!)

Also, incase anyone is interested, here's the nameplate:



Any help or advice would be very much appreciated.

Cheers

Chris

 

[wa5cab]

Chris,

The 10F-16 visible on the back of the bearing is the correct part number. So it's probably the correct part. I have never owned a 10" but the solid pin visible in your photo does not appear on any 10" parts list. I know for certain that my 12" does not have such a pin.

You are missing the 10F-74 thrust washer on the headstock side of the bearing. It looks similar to the 10F-75 on the other side.

Robert D.

 

[Bellers]

Chris,

The 10F-16 visible on the back of the bearing is the correct part number. So it's probably the correct part. I have never owned a 10" but the solid pin visible in your photo does not appear on any 10" parts list. I know for certain that my 12" does not have such a pin.

You are missing the 10F-74 thrust washer on the headstock side of the bearing. It looks similar to the 10F-75 on the other side.

Robert D.

Thanks for the information Rob,

I'll try to get that pin removed then. What do you reckon, a bit of heat to the bed and get some mole grips on the pin?

With regards to the missing thrust washer, there is a chance that the one I have is in the wrong place. How can I tell the difference between the two so that I can correctly identify which I have?

Also I have what I understand to be a fairly common issue with the mitre gear (341-05F) behind the apron. The key along the inside has worn away. How is this normally repaired on these lathes?

As I'm sure you will have noticed - I have many questions and there will be more to follow. Thanks for you advice.

Chris

 

[tawas23]

On your miter gear question as you can see our machines are kinda similar my miter gear embossed key way is worn out too ..I ordered one on ebay as right now there is one for sale for 60.00 ..I bought mine.... and in the mean time I drilled a 1/8 dowel into mine threw the retainer ring and into the gear and doweled it ..then pushed it threw far enough to ride along the power feed screw key way...working fine as of now until my gear comes in or until the dowel doesnt work any more ...hope this helps ...Your talking about the power cross feed I believe ..if not disregard...

 

[wa5cab]

Chris,

I would personally use a slid-hammer pin puller. This is a slide hammer puller with a collet on the nose instead of jaws. You might be able to rent one from a place that rents auto mechanic tools. I bought mine to pull alignment pins from Land Rover gearbox castings. But whatever you use to pull with, I would soak the pin/bed interface with Kroil or equivalent for a couple of days. And then, as you say, heat the inside of the bed. Put something on the pin to act as a heat sink during the heating process.

I don't know in detail what the actual differences between the 10F-74 and 10F-75 thrust washers are. In the illustrated parts lists, they look just alike. So I don't know whether the one remaining is the 10F-75 that belongs there or actually the 10F-74 and it's the -75 that is missing. Perhaps someone with either a 10F or any of the 3/4" leadscrew 12" could measure theirs and tell us what the differences are. But the two or three thin larger diameter shims or flat washers shown in your photo aren't original. Neither are the jam nuts. The original nut was a variety of mechanical lock nut whose name I can't at the moment recall.

On the bevel gear problem, best solution is to acquire a new one. However, there have been several threads in this forum this year on the subject. A little searching, perhaps on "atlas bevel gear" or "atlas miter gear" should turn them up. Most had photos of the "fix".

Robert D.

 

[Bellers]

So thanks to this post http://www.hobby-machinist.com/showthread.php?t=19398&p=163373&viewfull=1#post163373 I can see that the thrust washer I'm missing has a screw in it and from here: http://www.ereplacementparts.com/collar-with-screw-p-977454.html that the washer with the screw is 10F-75.

Unfortunately the cost of this part is $87.51 and once I get it to the UK and pay import duty and VAT I'd be looking at well over $120. FOR A WASHER!

So, the next request is that if anyone has this washer on their 10F, could they please measure it for me so I can try to make one? I have some brass somewhere in the garage which would probably do the job very nicely and provide a little more lubrication that what it's originally made from.

I'll do a little more research on the mitre gear repair - thanks for the pointer!

Chris

 

[tawas23]

I just took mine off and measured it for you.. it measures .875 outer dia..... .500 inner dia by .187 thick ..there you go have fun making it both retainers measure the same

 

[wa5cab]

Chris,

Although for something as simple as that, I would likely just make it myself, the site you found is not Clausing, and it isn't even Sears. Judging by the ship time given, they have drawings and would have the part custom made to order. Given job shop rates in the US today of over $120/hour, the quoted price is not surprising. However, if you could order it from Clausing, assuming they have some in stock (which they may well do), it would likely cost $10 to $15 as they would have had a hundred or more made on one order. Postage would add another $14 to that but I don't think that you have to pay VAT on inbound postage.

As far as making it out of brass, that will work but won't last as long. It is usually best to make replacement parts out of the same material as the original. No point in having to make another one in a few years.

Robert D.

 

[Rob]

I believe my 12 sears just has a pin in the washer. The purpose of it is to ride in a key war on the lead screw. It would turn with the lead screw and keep the nut from becoming loose.

 

[wa5cab]

I had assumed that there had to be a slot across the threads on the end of the lead screw. Else the flat head screw shown in one of the reference photographs made no sense. Plus the photograph of the 10F-75 at the parts link showed a round head screw sticking through into the ID of the washer. And making the right hand washer turn with the lead screw makes sense.

Robert D.