MT3 tailstock issue

[Rellortnoc]

I have a Grizzly G0602 and am new to machining. Recently purchased a Jacobs 5/8 chuck with an MT3. The problem is that the taper shaft is so long that I have to run out my tailstock half way just to seat it. That only leaves me about an inch or less to center bore. Then I have to move the tailstock closer to cut deeper. Is there precedent for cutting some of the MT3 shaft off? Seems like a logical option, but as I said, I’m new to machining and don’t want to make a blunder.

 

[benmychree]

You could possibly do that, hopefully, if you remove the tang, there will still be enough length to knock out the chuck.

 

[Rellortnoc]

Well, it was stuck in there today. Took the tailstock shaft out and had to use a punch to remove the taper. That’s gonna be a lot of work if I have to do that all the time. My next purchase will be a live center. May have the same issue. There’s just not much travel in the tailstock. Thanx for the advice.

 

[darkzero]

That's what I do on my lathe. My tailstock doesn't have the slot for a tang. I cut my arbors to length (not just the tang) so they eject when my ram is pretty much fully retracted so I can make more use of the ram travel for drilling. Don't cut too short though, leave some room in case you ever need to ream your TS ram. I only do this for my drill chucks.

 

[Nutfarmer]

I have a grizzly G4916 and the p.o. Cut the tang off as shown in the picture. Just don't cut it too short or it won't eject when the tail stock is retracted

 

[Rellortnoc]

Thanx to all for the replies. I’m figuring I can cut a total of 1” off. That’s probably 3/8“ more than just the tang. I’ll measure it all again two or three more times before I cut it to make certain. That will let me run the TS all the way to zero on the scale. It will move on in another 3/8 which should be enough to eject. I would love to be able to keep a center bore in the taper, but can’t figure out how I’d do that. My thought was that if I ever needed it longer (like after reaming the TS) I could thread the end and put some sort of a bolt in the end.

I‘m actually enjoying trying to work these issues. Learning a lot.

 

[darkzero]

I would love to be able to keep a center bore in the taper, but can’t figure out how I’d do that.

Do you mean like how to hold it so you can drill & tap the center or whatever? If yes, here's how I hold them. They make straight MT sleeves but are expensive or can cut down a MT extension. I just bought the cheapest thing I could find that had a Morse Taper with straight OD which was a R8 to MT3 adapter that was like $10 shipped. Cut off the portion I needed. It was actually ground concentrically on the OD too. Of course you could just make one also.

I actually just did this one a few weeks ago.

 

[Tozguy]

I would love to be able to keep a center bore in the taper, but can’t figure out how I’d do that.

Would you explain this a bit more please. I'm not sure I understand.

 

[Tozguy]

This was my approach to drilling and tapping the tang end of an MT3/MT2 adapter.
Chances are the tapered part of your tool is hardened and ground but the tang is relatively soft.
Also there is likely a centre divot in the tang so you only have to dial in the big end of the taper in the chuck.
Once the tang was drilled and threaded (with a common tap) it was cut back using a cut off wheel in an angle grinder.

 

[Rellortnoc]

Would you explain this a bit more please. I'm not sure I understand.

I guess I meant the divot In the end of the tang. Where you hold it with the live center. New to all his and don’t know all the terminology yet. I’ve seen some tapers that were actually bored and tapped instead of a tang. You could insert a bolt to adjust your overall length If needed.