Motor switch out

Wheresmywrench?

Wheresmywrench?

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I am looking for options for replacing the mill head motor on my Maximat V10-P Mentor lathe/mill. I was originally told that the mill had a propitiatory made motor for the mill. That may be true for the single phase motors BUT the 3 phase motor has a shaft that is only 5cm or 2 inches long. Also the mounting flange connects to the motor with 4 set screws. I have attached a few pictures for your comment/ideas.


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100_3777.jpg 100_3779_00.jpg 100_3780_00.jpg
 
if you can give me a clear picture of the nameplate of the motor, i'll bet you i can find a direct replacement or a very close in specification motor to swap out.
it comes with a mild warning as follows:
sometimes manufacturers go to great lengths to trip up DIY people from repairing things themselves
(they don't make a dime if your equipment works, they get your dime when it breaks and you can't fix it)

motors are made a lot of times to similar specifications although they may be used for different purposes.
sometimes it's as simple as the direction the motor turns, sometimes very complex requiring the use of specialized materials and non standardized dimensions , or whether the motor is a washdown, an open frame, a TEFC, Inverter Duty, or explosion proof.
a lot of factors can pile up rapidly.
most of the time, by answering a few basic questions and getting a grasp of what motor frame size is, a replacement motor is usually pretty easy to find.

off the top of my head you motor looks like a Metric face mount motor (B14 mount) most likely, a D63 frame or a D71 frame.
but i'd be able to tell for sure looking at the nameplate.
 
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here's a similar motor, just as an illustration.

disclaimer: i have no connection with the company, distributor or manufacturer of the motors
click the link below

http://electricmotors.guidestobuy.c...fc-c-face-leeson-electric-metric-motor-192027


it is not a direct replacement, but very similar. the shaft protrusion is only 23mm.
modification by extending the shaft could be possible with a little forethought.

with a little more research, i can get a little closer.

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just out of curiosity why are you replacing the motor?
unless you have a direct short inside the motor,
i would consider replacing the bearings if there is only a noise issue and otherwise electrically ok
3 phase motors generally last forever unless shorted or corroded badly



i'm not suggesting that anyone else attempt, but i have disassembled new motors for the field windings and installed the old special specification rotor into the new field windings and made old dead stuff breathe again with 100% success and survival rate.
i once installed a used 7.5 hp 213t rotor into a new 215t field housing, payed $450 for the new motor and transplanted the windings to avoid buying a $2500 dollar factory spec motor.
that piece of equipment works 7 days a week and has been doing so for 6 years now.

Boy am i glad i don't listen to know it all's, who tell me it can't be done!!!!

My 7.5 hp RPC was produced form 2 failed baldor motors frankensteined into the abomination that efficiently runs any piece of equipment i wish to start up.
it will grudgingly fire off a 10 hp motor unloaded in about 2 1/2 rotor rotations
 
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Ulma Doctor said:
good enough!!
if you can remove the pinion gear and get a shaft length and diameter and whether it has a woodruff or square key and it's dimension
would all be helpful for direct match up!!!
be careful not to break the oil slinger rod
Click to expand...

So How do I go about removing the gear? I'm assuming I need to remove the nut to get the nylon rod off then use a gear puller to remove the gear. I see there is a hole in the side of the gear next to the motor base. I assume that is to put a drift pin in to hold the gear while removing the nut. There is nothing wrong with the motor. The reason I am switching it out is I do not have 440v 3 phase available. I live out in the country and it's too expensive to bring in so I'm going to go to 220 volt single phase.
 
that's a pretty good reason to change the motor,
i'd go about it like this,

remove the roll pin near gear base @ shaft,
remove the slinger
remove the locknut, you're gonna want to hold the gear with a rag or other soft, tuff material (aluminum, plastic, copper, a PVC pipe slit and fitted may suffice , or a few layers of aluminum from a soda can) and a pair of vise grips to hold the gear firmly but not as to damage the teeth.
knock the nut off
gear may require puller, but may slip off easily if keyed. get a prybar or screwdriver behind the gear and give a little pry away from the motor.
 
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