Mini Lathe Cross Slide Bearing Mod

E

ehamady

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My goal is to have the cross slide gib on my 7x14 mini lathe tight for rigidity and implement a bearing to make the slide smooth to operate, and maybe get rid of a little backlash in the process.

Is there more to it than hogging out the bushing to house the bearing(s)? I'm not sure I even see exactly how a bearing can make a difference if the gib is tight. I tend to overcomplicate things. Note that I don't want to increase the travel with a longer bushing which also requires other mods.

1. Has anyone in this forum done this mod on a mini lathe and does it really work?
2. How does the bearing overcome the tight gib to slide easily?
3. Are thrust needle bearings a good option?

If I can do this mod then I'll photograph each step and write up a detailed tutorial to make it easier for others.
 
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I did my 9x20 lathe. Just kinda winged it but I made the whole deal so I had nothing holding me down. I simply too some steel and turned down one side and faced it. Flipped it around so the clean side was against the chuck. Faced it and turned down the side to my largest size(flange).Center drilled it then drilled it through. Bored it out for the bearings I was using. Flipped it, indicate, bore the other side for the bearings. In your case it will have to be the same length as the oem and same mounting hole specs and the bearings need to have the ID of the oem screw

How you do between the bearings is up to you. But it will have to have a step for the screws or bolts
 
chuckorlando said:
I did my 9x20 lathe. Just kinda winged it but I made the whole deal so I had nothing holding me down. I simply too some steel and turned down one side and faced it. Flipped it around so the clean side was against the chuck. Faced it and turned down the side to my largest size(flange).Center drilled it then drilled it through. Bored it out for the bearings I was using. Flipped it, indicate, bore the other side for the bearings. In your case it will have to be the same length as the oem and same mounting hole specs and the bearings need to have the ID of the oem screw

How you do between the bearings is up to you. But it will have to have a step for the screws or bolts
Click to expand...

I like the idea of modding a whole new deal. If it doesn't work then I can put the stock one back on. I don't have a mill to put a flat on a homemade bushing for the slide's travel so I may have to buy a second one to do the mod on.

So you used 2 bearings?
 
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Yea I used one in the front against the handle and one at the back against the lathe. Turns like butter. You dont need a mill for the flats. Fixture it to your carriage at the right height and use a end mill in you lathe chuck. Use the cross feed to move the work. Worse come to worst use a hack saw, angle grinder, chop say or what have you. Just make it one piece IMO
 
By "back against the lathe" do you mean sandwiching the bushing between the 2 bearings?
Cross slide -> bearing -> bushing -> bearing -> dial -> handle

I can make a prototype out of scrap aluminum rod. If I can't figure a way to hold it on the lathe then maybe I can cut the flat using an endmill in my drill press if I shave off very tiny amounts.

How do the bearings overcome the tight gib to turn like butter, or do you still have to play with the gib's tightness like you do without bearings?
 
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I keep my gibs pretty tight and it works fine. I made a larger hand wheel for it which likely helps more then anything. Most times I lay a hand top and bottom of the wheel and just roll it. I want to redo the compound as it's a sore spot now in comparison. Again, mostly the tiny wheel. You could use a drill press just use the end mill like a drill. I would not load it from the side like a milling machine. Just set your stop and bring it straight down, move the work over, straight down, etc, etc

The screw should have a flat on it that rest on the inside of the neck. Where the neck mounts to the lathe. When the nut is on the out side of the wheel, it captures the neck between the flat and nut so the screw cant move in and out. Well the inside bearing is what that flat butts up against on mine. But yes your correct.... Nut, hand wheel, bearing, neck, bearing (flat), lathe. But tech both bearings are recessed in the neck
 
Great info. Thanks! I'll order some bearings and give this a shot.
 
chuckorlando said:
I keep my gibs pretty tight and it works fine. I made a larger hand wheel for it which likely helps more then anything. Most times I lay a hand top and bottom of the wheel and just roll it. I want to redo the compound as it's a sore spot now in comparison. Again, mostly the tiny wheel. You could use a drill press just use the end mill like a drill. I would not load it from the side like a milling machine. Just set your stop and bring it straight down, move the work over, straight down, etc, etc

The screw should have a flat on it that rest on the inside of the neck. Where the neck mounts to the lathe. When the nut is on the out side of the wheel, it captures the neck between the flat and nut so the screw cant move in and out. Well the inside bearing is what that flat butts up against on mine. But yes your correct.... Nut, hand wheel, bearing, neck, bearing (flat), lathe. But tech both bearings are recessed in the neck
Click to expand...

Next time you have it torn down for cleaning or whatever, how's about taking some pictures, please!

Chuck
 
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