Milling machine miniature workpiece capabilities.

[GummyMonster]

Afternoon everyone,
I'm working on a little project that got me wondering.
It's an adjustment screw for a rifle trigger.
The screwdriver slot in the end was factory machined to one side, and I went to turn it (with a small, precision bit screwdriver. No high torque applied here) and the one side of the slot busted off.
Luckily, it still long enough for me to flatten the top and file a new slot. It's my rifle, and the screw is totally hidden, so if it's not perfect it's not an issue.
But if it was a customer's rifle, I would want it as close to perfect as possible. That's part of the way I plan to build my business, by turning out exceptional quality work every time.
I have some problems with my hands from past damage. They slightly tremble often, and I can't hold small pieces with my left hand.
Anyways, to my question. Would a good quality mil, such as the PM-728Vt, which I plan to acquire be able to make a fine slot like this in such a small workpiece. It's 0.58" total length x 0.088" shaft diameter . I'm assuming it wouldn't be a problem, but knowing for certain will help me convince the wife that spending a few thousand dollars will be worth it. My original idea for the milling machine is to take out the human equation of using hand tools which my trembling would effect, as well as greatly expand the work I'm capable of tackling.
Sorry for the long winded post, but I wanted to properly explain.
Thanks for your time in advance,
Ken

 

[mmcmdl]

A slitting saw would be used to make the slot quite easily .

 

[Chewy]

As mmcmdl said, the slitting saw is your best option. The blades range from .006 to .182 thick. The number of teeth and diameter is something you can get advice on. Some of my guns have slots of .016 & .020. A lot have slots more around .032. Blades run $8-30- each.

Since you are looking at acquiring the tools, some points to think about. The mill you are looking at will more than do the job. I am one size smaller and have no trouble with big or small projects. I highly, highly recommend you get the DRO at time of purchase. It will simplify things that you didn't know you wanted simple. Get a good vise. You don't need it for this as you can use clamps on the table. You need to hold the screw. Two ways for this. Drill a hole in piece of metal and cut the metal in half long ways. Clamp the metal in vise or on table to hold screw solid. Better way is to get collets. ER32 or 5C, your choice and a set of collet blocks or spin indexer. After that you need to center the slot. You can get many ways to do this. I would use a DTI & the DRO since I have both. You need slitting saw arbor and end-mill holder or collet to fit the mill, most likely R8.

Everything I mentioned will be used for other purposes so do some homework before purchase. Enjoy!!

P.S. many years ago I set my wife up to make lampwork glass beads. It cost ME $1500 for HER to make her first $6 bead. I can't guess how many thousands of beads she made over the years out of that investment.

 

[mmcmdl]

P.S. many years ago I set my wife up to make lampwork glass beads. It cost ME $1500 for HER to make her first $6 bead. I can't guess how many thousands of beads she made over the years out of that investment.

Chewy . May I ask what a lamp glass bead is ? My daughter is getting into crafts and I'm trying to figure how to get the machines used again . TIA . Dave

 

[ArmyDoc]

P.S. many years ago I set my wife up to make lampwork glass beads. It cost ME $1500 for HER to make her first $6 bead. I can't guess how many thousands of beads she made over the years out of that investment.

$1500 investment, $6/bead, thousands of beads made, sounds like her machine paid for itself and then some! Wish I could say the same thing about my hobbies...

 

[Chewy]

Two types of glass. Boro, which is hard glass. Think Pyrex and small animal figures and blown glass. Lamp work glass is a "soft" silicon glass that dates back century's. Need a propane/Oxy torch. Must have Didymium glasses, not welders glasses. A kiln that you can ramp down (manually or automatic) and hand tools. Pliers and stainless steel mandrels, carbon pads to roll on, ETC. The Recession and the Chinese killed her off about ten years ago. Who wants to pay $4-10 dollars a piece for really fine hand made stuff when yo can buy a bag of knock-offs for $5. Up until then she went around the country to high dollar jewelry shows and mainly supplied to other artists for their creations. The picture is just the first that I grabbed as representing the beads and her jewellery. Real fun and emotionally pleasing, just can't support itself anymore.

 

[mmcmdl]

Amazing work !

 

[GummyMonster]

Thanks guys.
I actually hadn't heard of a slitting saw. It gave me an idea, I have a mini cut off saw I bought for cutting down rifle brass for cartridge conversions. It might save me a lot of cautious filing. It's blade is almost identical to the slitting saw.
This is why I'm starting with a smaller lathe first, so I can figure out all the different tooling I'll need. As far as th PM setup, I'm going to get a fairly high end setup. DRO's, table feed motors, a ton of different clamping tools. A huge assortment of cutting tools.
Like I said, I want to remove my slight shakiness from the work.
As far as your wife's glass work. I can't believe she sold something like that for $10. When I saw it I figured about 6-10 times that amount. She's an absolute artist. It's sad that this new society doesn't value high quality hand made things.
Have a good evening,
Ken

 

[Chewy]

Each one of the beads would be $4-10. Plus Sterling Silver and famous name crystal. That necklace would probably have been around $100 at the time. Looks and Glitter also factor into pricing.

A slitting saw is very fragile. Would not recommend using it in anything other then a rigid setup.

 

[GummyMonster]

Ok, $100 for that seems much more reasonable.
I've googled using slitting saws and I'll start learning.
Ken