Milling Information

jroma1

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As in the past I feel I must emphasize the fact that I am not a machinist,I also have to include I am not a draftsman. I need help in making an arbor to hold (As Victor Machinery defines them) Saws,Screw Slotting. If these blades come under a different definition a photo of two of these saws will follow.

As mentioned above I am not a draftsmen,however I felt I had to make an attempt to put something on paper to better understand what I am trying to accomplish. Let's start with the following photo


The slot shown was done with a hack saw it's off center,crude and not wide enough for a standard screw driver. I feel I found a possible solution. Victor Machinery has a family of saw blades called Saws,Screw Slotting, the OD = 2.250" , ID = .625 ,Thkns = Varies

saws.jpgPICT0009.JPG

The two blades shown,one is .032 Thk and the other is .051 Thk. The key slot is .125" wide by approx .090" deep. I intended to use .125 key stock and the .125 end mill was purchased for that purpose.

Now to the arbor that I hope can be made to use these saw blades,refer to the following drawing;

Saw Spindel.JPG

I tried to present this dwg the best way I know how,anyone who would like to respond and has any questions please indicate in your response.
The .625" shoulder will have to be slotted for the .125 x .180 key,just how is a good question. I was hoping to use the .125 end mill to slot some point on the circumferance of the .625 shoulder. Once I can do that I would reduce the width of the shoulder.

Making the arbor itself is not a problem,what is the problem is the key,milling a .125 slot in the .625 shoulder for the .125 x.180 key and have it permanently installed without falling out. I tested the .125 end mill noted above on a piece of scrap and inserted a piece of .125 key stock into it, all I can say sloppy fit. Using a feeler gauge I tried to measure the width of the slot and it is about .132" wide. I feel the quill on my machine is in pretty good shape,the end mill was under $8.00???? ANY COMMENTS.
Also,slotting the cover to match up with the .625"shoulder.

Is there a better way to do this any comments ,suggestions greatly appreciated

John Romano
Philadelphia Pa

Saw Spindel.JPG PICT0009.JPG saws.jpg
 
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John,

I don't see anything wrong with your design - it should work fine. My questions would be why 3/8"-18 threads? Standard Imperial 3/8" threads are UNC 16 and UNF 24 TPI.

Just curious.

Steve
 
looks good to me. In the ones I make I dont put a key slot in. I rely on the bolt to hold the blade and like the fact that if I get stupid it will slip instead of tearing things up.

Roy

on edit I have used 6" .200 kerf saws with this method cutting 2" thick stainless. No you'r not going to throw out red hot chips but you will cut.
 
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You don't need to cut a key way. I made up an arbor by copying a commercial design and it works fine.
Here is my drawing.


RegardsSawArbor.png

SawArbor.jpg SawArbor.png
 
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