Milling Angles...? Sine Plate Or Tilt Vise?

[EmilioG]

This is an operation on the mill that I have never attempted. I don't own a sine plate or tilting vise,
so what do I need to mill angles to create 15° and other cuts on steel, e.g. to make a Jacobs style wedge
or toe/edge clamps and similar tools. Can this be done safely and effectively on a tilting vise?

I would rather use a sine plate but the good quality plates are expensive. B&S or Suburban tool.
I may buy a good used plate, small. I see them on Ebay, but then you also need a set of gage blocks.
All this can easily become a $500 purchase. I see no other way to do this type of work accurately.
Thanks.

 

[BGHansen]

Here's how I've milled a block at an angle (lot's of methods):

1) Dykem the part and scribe a layout line using a protractor (like the $9 one from CDCOtools.com below). Set a parallel flat on top of the mill vise jaw and set the block so the layout line lines up with the parallel. Then remove the parallel which will give you some clearance to the top of the vise.

2) Use an adjustable angle block like the $42 one from CDCO below. Set the angle block to the appropriate angle and hold it up against a vise jaw. Set the part in place and tighten the vise. Naturally the part will need to be wider than the angle block or you'll need to use some spacers between the moving vise jaw and the work to clamp it up.

3) Use the 15 deg. angle block from the $25 set from CDCO. Pretty much the same set up as #2.

I've used all three methods with success. I'm sure there'll be a ton more ways posted on your thread from guys with a lot more experience than me.

Bruce

 

[EmilioG]

That's excellent. Thank you. Sine plate is nice but this should work.

 

[Bob Korves]

Does the head of your mill not tilt? Tools like toe clamps do not need tools like sine plates to set a clearance angle. What is the difference if you are a degree or so off? You could make a wedge block to a random angle that visually looks good to you and then use it for making repeatable angles on parts, never measuring an angle in the process. Sine bars and plates with gage blocks are for when you need a very accurate angle, like for instance, making a Morse taper shank that fits correctly, not a trivial project. The angle blocks at the bottom of the pics that Bruce posted are inexpensive, easy and quick to use, and are accurate enough for the vast majority of work.

 

[EmilioG]

I really don't want to tilt the head of a mill back and forth.
Trivial is not a word I use to describe my projects, some things may not need super accuracy but others do.
I'll look in to the angle blocks but not sure I want to deal with CDCO machinery. I'd rather pay a little more and
buy the Brown & Sharpe Precision angle block. With 30% off= around $120.00. I want better accuracy for other
projects that I have in the works.

 

[Bob Korves]

My statement was that making a Morse taper shank is not a trivial project. Read it again, it had nothing to do with your projects. My apologies for not communicating effectively if you took it that way.

 

[EmilioG]

No worries. I take my work seriously, not myself.
and, I don't like cheap tools. I don't know much about CDCO but I've read a lot of bad reviews.

 

[EmilioG]

Here's how I've milled a block at an angle (lot's of methods):

1) Dykem the part and scribe a layout line using a protractor (like the $9 one from CDCOtools.com below). Set a parallel flat on top of the mill vise jaw and set the block so the layout line lines up with the parallel. Then remove the parallel which will give you some clearance to the top of the vise.

2) Use an adjustable angle block like the $42 one from CDCO below. Set the angle block to the appropriate angle and hold it up against a vise jaw. Set the part in place and tighten the vise. Naturally the part will need to be wider than the angle block or you'll need to use some spacers between the moving vise jaw and the work to clamp it up.

3) Use the 15 deg. angle block from the $25 set from CDCO. Pretty much the same set up as #2.

I've used all three methods with success. I'm sure there'll be a ton more ways posted on your thread from guys with a lot more experience than me.

Bruce


How did you hold the work down in the angle block? Did you put a vise in to it? How is round or flat stock held in this type of angle block?

 

[Bob Korves]

Yes, CDCO seems a bit like a pawn shop on skid row, but I got the nicest BXA tool holder blocks there for the incredible price of $10 each. I would not bet to repeat that deal again, and I also have read plenty of bad reviews on CDCO, especially if you want to return something...

Suburban Tool also sells those blocks, and Browne & Sharpe as you noted. I think those are all China imports, subject to concern. Unless they actually do calibration work on acceptance I would still be concerned, regardless of re-branding. That is why you need a good reference, so you can check and perhaps calibrate them yourself.

 

[EmilioG]

Suburban Tools is mostly USA with a few value line products made in Taiwan.
The SPi angle block looks decent and they're known for quality tools. That's OK. As long as it works well.
I'll keep looking. Good inspection tools can tell you where or how far off you are. I'm not chasing tenths,
but I do like accurate measurements.