MDF Questions

racecar builder

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CNCer's

i just want to get up to speed with MDF for building

next CNC router table.

anybody had experience with it?

Have A Nice Day!
 
In working with MDF, it has high high glue content. Do not expect your non carbide blades to last. It is hard on blades. Cuts very nice on my table saw with a thin kerf carbide 60 th carbide blade. Use a zero clearance insert to avoid tear out.

After that sanding is not a real issue but it does have a bit of a grain structure due to the way the sheets are made. Also the raw edges on the sheet stock will absorb glue or paint like it is going out of style. Pretreat the cut edges prior to final glue up. Predrill all nail/screw holes. Use a backer when drilling through to avoid tear out.

If used where humidity will be a problem, coat all surfaces with sealer of quality. Shellac or poly that has a bit of thinner works very well. More than 1 coat to be sure to seal up the material.
 
Control the dust. MDF dust is very bad for you...the particles are super-fine and contains formaldehyde, read more here: http://www.props.eric-hart.com/safety/is-mdf-really-that-bad-for-you/

It's very flat and stable, unless it gets wet. The edges are somewhat fragile.

There are special screws for it: http://www.mcfeelys.com/confirmat-mdf-screws But I just regular screw after drilling a proper countersunk pilot.

I use it a lot for templates and jigs in my woodworking, and have recently been using it as a spoil board under aluminum sheet I was cutting brackets out of on the Bridgy.

Get a 2x4' sheet from Home Cheapot or Lowe's and play with it some...
 
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I forgot about the dust, my dust collector turns on with the saw, so I kind of forgot about it. Good catch Kenny
 
The dust is so fine it will cause eye and tear duct infections. Like Kennyd said its the formaldehyde in the dust that causes the real damage. If I was building a CNC base I would look at Al or a good Baltic birch plywood. My students cut a lot of MDF on our CNC router and its a pain to finish.


Jeff
 
even plywood has ton of formaldehyde in it, but MDF is pure evil with it's fine dust. even with Dust collection at the source, the fine particles that stay above the TS will linger in the air for hours, and into your lungs.

I try to minimize (read avoid) the use of MDF, and will only use it if I MUST in which case I'll cut it outdoors with a mask on away from the doorways so that the particles won't drift in the shop.

make sure you use a GOOD mask, not the paper ones, and if you see this as a common material that you'll work with often I'd look at alternatives like baltic birch or I'd look into a torsion box assembly if you need surfaces to stay flat (honeycomb) and then you can even use lighter/thinner materials for the top surfaces.
 
Hi,

I knew from experience that it makes a terrible dust, what I didn't know was that it was so dangerous; I'll have to be extra carful the next time.

José
 
CNCer's

i think we'll give the MDF a pass.

about that Baltic Birch.

do you mean the 5/8" 9 ply i was buying in the 90's

as 48 x 60 sheet for about $40 a sheet?

Have A Nice Day!
 
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Dont know what size or thickness or strength you need but cheap, flat, relatively stable and light are hollow core doors.

Jeff
 
The thread may be dead, but in case any ones interested, tufnol makes for a strong, very stable and manageable surface. May be a uk item only?I fully concur with not using mdf because ofthe nasty dust. Try routing it and you'll see!Graham
 
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