matrix

dirty tools

dirty tools

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I have been looking for a good benchtop milling machine. I have limited worke space the reasion for a benchtop.
I have several Koler (20 hp)and Wischion (30 to 60 hp) engines to overhaul most require major cylinder rework (including liner replacement). The cylinders are about 2 3/4 to 4 inch in dia.

A matrix would be a way to lay out a comparsion of what is available.
But where would I start?
I
 
dirty tools said:
I have been looking for a good benchtop milling machine. I have limited worke space the reasion for a benchtop.
I have several Koler (20 hp)and Wischion (30 to 60 hp) engines to overhaul most require major cylinder rework (including liner replacement). The cylinders are about 2 3/4 to 4 inch in dia.

A matrix would be a way to lay out a comparsion of what is available.
But where would I start?
I
Click to expand...

Not sure of what you want but these things come to mind:
1. How much space do you have above your bench? Height of machine?
2. Power available.
3. Clearance from table to cutting tool.
4. Wisconsin means "V" blocks to me, not sure about Koler, table big enough to hold them?
5. Cost?

Have a good day

Ray
 
A matrix is a good place to start. I would start the matrix with some info on what the space required from the bottom of the block which will be on the mill table to the bottom of the tool that's going to do the work. Add to that the height of the tool and figure out what the minimum gap required between the table and the bottom of the spindle. It's going to be pretty tall for a table top machine. It would be good if the table is longer than the long dimension of the block so you can clamp stuff down. Wider would be good too. In any case, you have to have some way to clamp things down to the table. The vertical travel of the tool must be enough to machine the full bore. Those are the basics I would look at first. That will narrow the field considerably I bet.
 
Being a former small and industrial eng mechanic I can tell you that boring or replacing a liner takes tools the average large machine shop doesnt even have. For some reason the jugs need to be bolted into a fixture when boring or they chatter like the dickens and really make the bore rough. We had a machinist in town who would do them but he was slow and expensive so we just replaced the jugs and svaed the junkers for boring and honing for shop stock. We could sell you a refinished jug for 25.00 plsus the bore job and your old jug in exchange. The issue was if a warranty problem developed who was paying to fix it. If your doing it for private use like a lawn service or curb sawing co, then you probably dont have the time to mess around too much with this stuff except in the slow season. Also I have found lately that the eng manufacturers have greatly reduced the available oversized parts to a minimum and that makes for a long wait for the pistons to arrive to go to the machinist for proper bore sizing and honing. Generally just not worth the time, delays and effort since the guides and seats also take a good beating on the Kohlers and Kawasaki's especially. Hope this helps you with you search.
Bob
 
LMT25L is in the size range but the specs. make it a light machine which concerns me. I would pefer heaver construction.
been able to pivit the head 90 degrees both directions would be of great option, most milling machines can pivot 45, 90.
 
dirty tools said:
LMT25L is in the size range but the specs. make it a light machine which concerns me. I would pefer heaver construction.
been able to pivit the head 90 degrees both directions would be of great option, most milling machines can pivot 45, 90.
Click to expand...

I have a G0704 basicley the same mill. No way I would atemped to do that type of work . This is the smallest mill that would be ridged enough.
http://www.wttool.com/index/page/pr...ail+Column+(WT)&update_continue_shopping=true
 
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