Manual for a Right angle milling head?

randyjaco

randyjaco

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I recently acquired a Dorian r-8 right angle head. I would like to pick up the components and use my BP clone as a horizontal miller from time to time. I need to get a copy of a manual or instruction sheet to put together the components. Can anyone help me out with this?
Dorian, Enco and MSC weren't much help.

Thanks
Randy
 
I have a right angle head for my clone. I just took a piece of 2" thick aluminum plate and sawed out the end support to fit onto the ram's dovetail,with a bolt to tighten it. i carefully slid the outboard support up to a pointed cutter rotating in the rt. angle attachment,to mark the center of the arbor support. Then,I drilled it out,and fitted a bronze bushing for the arbor to run in. Then,I turned out a few R8 arbors to use in the attachment. Has always worked fine,and is quite rigid.
 
I have a manual somewhere for a right angle head. I'll look for it when I get out to the shop later. If I remember correctly there's not much info in it.

When installing the head on your machine always tighten the drawbar first and then tighten the clamp screws that hold it on the quill. If you tighten the clamp screws first and then the drawbar it will damage the head.
 
Here's the instruction sheet I have. Like I said it really doesn't tell you much.

RightAngleHead.jpg

I assume you only have the head so here's a picture of the complete set.

RightAngleHeadSet.jpg

If you don't have a extended hex drawbar you'll need one or one of the special wrenches they make for them.


RightAngleHeadWrench.JPG

Also if you plan on buying the arbor support be aware that the dovetail angle on the ram varies depending on the manufacturer. Bridgeport used 50 degrees, Index used 45 and Alliant used 60.

RightAngleHead.jpg RightAngleHeadSet.jpg RightAngleHeadWrench.JPG
 
Yes: Be sure to leave some space between the top of the right angle attachment and the bottom of the headstock casting. The attachment will move upwards as you tighten the draw bar. I have an extended drawbar(has a longer hex on the top) that I use with the attachment. Before that,I was able to reach the drawbar with a long 3/4" socket.

Don't forget to tighten the 2 Allen head screws after you get the drawbar tightened,BUT FIRST,back off the screw that is there to slightly expand the attachment's hole,so you can get it onto your quill. If you forget to back off the expansion screw,you can easily crack the thin casting of the attachment,and ruin it.

It has been a long time since I used the attachment since I have a horizontal mill now. So,this is written a little backwards as I remembered what all to do. But BE CAREFUL to follow every direction here,or you can break the attachment. I only use mine when I have to machine a piece that is too long for the travel of the horizontal mill.

One last thing: I thoroughly recommend removing the little stud that projects into the inside of the spindle. It slides into the groove in the R8 collets. But,it is not really needed,and can cause BAD trouble: I had a used rt. angle attachment,and the drive screw had buggered its way sideways into the groove. I had a bad time getting the attachment OFF the mill after it was used. The rather intermittent load on the attachment's spindle WILL enable even a real Bridgeport attachment to get this sideways wear in its R8. I have had no trouble with any collet slipping around since removing that blasted drive stud. It has a set screw on top of it,so remove BOTH these screws. You have to unscrew the ring at the bottom of the spindle,and I THINK it has a left hand thread(been a while). Under the ring,you can get at the screw and the stud under it. I used a wooden clamp to unscrew mine,so to not damage the surface of my ring.
 
george wilson said:
Don't forget to tighten the 2 Allen head screws after you get the drawbar tightened,BUT FIRST,back off the screw that is there to slightly expand the attachment's hole,so you can get it onto your quill. If you forget to back off the expansion screw,you can easily crack the thin casting of the attachment,and ruin it.
Click to expand...


George has made a very important note that you MUST do. And also, you MUST not wrench on this expansion screw/center set screw and spread the casting too far or you can crack it this way too! I have seen more damaged BP right angle attachments with a crack at the saw slit than good ones!
 
Correct: cast iron does not like to bend much. Only a few thousandths of expansion are enough to make the hole easily slip over the quill.
 
Hallo members
I have resently get a arbor support for the Bridgeport sqaermilling head, I,m wondered that there was a 11/16 bronze collet inside. How can the arbor rotate when it's locked up in a collet? How is the way to make this run well? By not close the collet complete so the arbor can spin arround or on an another way? I hope there is someone ho can help me out.

Regards from the Netherlands
 
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