Making a new rear axle for 1914 Cadillac

[OldCarGuy]

Slowly backing my 1914 Cadillac out of my garage a few weeks ago. It suddenly stop moving and looking over my shoulder I could see the axle popped the hubcap off and was protruding several inches.

The two axles on the left are spares for my 1910 Buick.. The two on the right are from this Cadillac

Broken end of axle I took out of housing. This was a replacement axle made long ago. And was made of mild steel. That's why it twisted.

The axles are floating and locked in place with brass hubcaps...

Underside showing massive two speed rear axle. Low range 3:66 to 1 and high range of 2.50:1..Shift on the fly

Cutting stock the axle stock on my vertical band saw. Pre-hard 4140 at 32 RC hardness

Turning to size OD on my lathe.. Between six-jaw chuck and live center/. Rather than using a steady rest, I simply took light cuts..

Getting out the old dividing head on my mill. Rather than making up a plate with a center to support the far end. I set up a V-Block with a strap across the top... Getting the correct height needed two sets of parallels and two pieces of paper. Then trued up all directions within a few thousands over the entire length...

Roughed in spline using 1/4" carbide cutter

With a piece of 4140 stock, I started to make the end piece of the axle. It will be doweled and welded to the shaft..

Drilling and boring hole to fit shaft..

Cut-off tool machine groove short depth

Then set up on my vertical band saw to finish the cut

Ready to machine driver lugs on OD

A 1/2" thick piece felt in the recessed area acts as an oil seal between the shaft and axle housing... Hundred year Old technology that works yet today...

Machining the notches that drive the wheel hub on my CNC Bed Mill. I mounted the end piece on a plate and clamped it in the 8" machine vise.

Roughing with 3/8" carbide end mill

Sharpened the inside corners with a smaller carbide mill

Machined a dome shape on the outside end to miss the hubcap. The dome was added for more cantact area from the axle to the end piece. That will be welded in place after dowels are put in..

End piece fit into axle hub.. The brass hubcap will hold the axle in place.

The axle has two ring and pinon gears. Ratios are high 3.66:1 and low 1.5:1

The spline ends of the axle shaft fit into the side gears. If you look close you can make out the spider gears.

Cadillac only used this two-speed rear axle in 1914 making the car quieter and to achieve higher speeds. In order compete with other makes with six cylinders engines. A design way ahead of the competition. However in 1915 Cadillac introduced their first V8 and dropped the two-speed rear axle...

Added two 5/16" dowel pins at the split of the end flange and axle shaft to lock it into place. Then TIG welding the outside end only on one of the flange to the axle.

Assemble the axles and first test drive.. All is good...

 

[rwm]

Remarkable!
RTW what is your manual mill? Looks gorgeous.

 

[matthewsx]

That car certainly is in the right hands.

John

 

[Martin W]

Nice work, and what a wonderful car!

 

[Firstram]

Beautiful work and car!
Any concerns about stress in the weld? Obviously a single hot and fast TIG bead around the end of the axle is the best place for a weld.

 

[OldCarGuy]

Beautiful work and car!
Any concerns about stress in the weld? Obviously a single hot and fast TIG bead around the end of the axle is the best place for a weld.

Actually I machined a good size "V" and TIG welded three layers. The two 5/16" dowel should hold the torque and the weld mainly to keep the flange from coming off the shaft. As far as stress,, if there's an issue, I have enough stock to make another one..

 

[OldCarGuy]

Remarkable!
RTW what is your manual mill? Looks gorgeous.

The manual mill is a Bridgeport knock-off that is a rebadged Atrump by an long standing Cleveland Ohio Machinery Sales company. Hence the name Cleveland on the head,, my CNC Bed mill is the same. (Atrump has no association to any political figure... )

I chose this knock-off over the Bridgeport that it replaced. It has a better feel that a BP; but the main decision was that it was 30% less money. Seeing that Bridgeport imports their machines from India (I believe). Artump are made in Taiwan a better choice for overall quality equipment... In my opinion. I'd purchase one again over the Bridgeport in a heartbeat. Unless Bridgeport made them totally in the USA and same quality as years past. Even with the 30% premium cost... Just saying..

When I get the chance I will give an honest review comparing the two...

Cleveland Machinery Sales, Inc. - Al Petitt's 4 Sons

Buying and selling Machine Tools for decades. Cleveland Machinery Sales, Inc. offers a large selection of new and used metalworking machinery. Let us show you how how we have been keeping our customers happy since the 1940s. If you are in Cleveland come see our huge showroom.

clevelandmachinery.com

Atrump Machinery Inc.

atrump.com

 

[OldCarGuy]

I may have been out of step posting this thread here. If the power's to be could chine in and or move it to the proper place. I would appreciate it.

 

[rwm]

I have always wondered when the time comes (soon) to get an actual BP or one of the clones. Are there specific brands of clones that are known to be superior? Obvi made in the US or Taiwan is a prerequisite.

 

[Firstram]

I have always wondered when the time comes (soon) to get an actual BP or one of the clones. Are there specific brands of clones that are known to be superior? Obvi made in the US or Taiwan is a prerequisite.

I have limited experience but, I just went through a Webb 3VK head and lower end. Chrome ways and Turcite are standard as well as Meehanite castings. It’s a nice machine!