Machine Cleaning & Protecting Oil Ingredient?

bcall2043

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Sorry for being long winded but I will try to explain how I got to where I am and the question I have. I know the subject of penetrating and other oil products has been discussed to death but the weather is cold and wet and it makes me think about the subject of our machines and their getting damp and how to keep them well-oiled.

I have been reading the various threads, and there are bunch, about penetrating oils, cleaning oils, water removal oils, and rust preventive oils. A search on penetrating oils turned up a sizeable list of discussions on our Hobby Machinist forum: http://www.hobby-machinist.com/search.php?searchid=181279 I read about a DIY product Ed’s Red here: http://home.comcast.net/~dsmjd/tux/dsmjd/tech/eds_red.htm used for cleaning and protection of guns. One of the other forums covered a comparison of various penetrating oil products including a DIY product using acetone & ATF as a couple of the ingredients. There was a lot of discussion about the fact that ATF and acetone don’t mix well. Reading all this got me to thinking some more about what and how to make a handy (don’t have to order & cheap) multipurpose mixture for use in the home shop that could be applied with any old squirt bottle for cleaning and would leave some projective oil film for short machine downtimes. The Ed’s Red sounded like a good starting point so I have started gathering the ingredients for the mixture. The suggested ingredients for the ER mixture are below:

CONTENTS: Ed's Red

  • 1 part Dexron ATF, GM Spec. D-20265 or later.
  • 1 part Kerosene - deodorized, K1
  • 1 part Aliphatic Mineral Spirits
  • CAS #64741-49-9, or substitute "Stoddard Solvent", CAS #8052-41-3, or equivalent.
  • 1 part Acetone, CAS #67-64-1.
  • (Optional 1 lb. of Lanolin, Anhydrous, USP per gallon, or OK to substitute Lanolin, Modified, Topical Lubricant, from the drug store)

The suggested ingredients consist of ATF (for lubrication/corrosion protection), three different petroleum solvents (thinning/cleaning) and Lanolin (for the hands). Then I started looking up the ingredients and their descriptions and uses. Don’t go away I’m almost there! Looking at the ATF/Dexron description here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DEXRON I noticed that one of the variations, Dexron-II, was hygroscopic . This would not be a good thing for oil left on a machine unless you were trying to remove water and then wiping down. The article in the link went on to explain that GM changed the spec to correct this and added corrosions inhibitors in their Dexron-III specification. Looking at the MSDS for the latest Dexron-VI product I noticed a new ingredient, methacrylate-copolymer. This ingredient as noted here: http://www.docstoc.com/docs/118848092/Methacrylate-Copolymer-Pour-Point-Depressants---Patent-8143202 reduces the pore point of the oil.

Now the question!

Would the methacrylate-copolymer addition make the oil a better penetrating product since it would behave like thinner oil and get into the small spaces easier?

Benny
The Orphanage Never Closes
 
Sorry Benny, I flunked rocket science. :whistle:

I never took it or if I did I forgot.:nuts:


I just got to reading the MSDS and looked up what that ingrdient use was and just got to thinking. I had read somewhere that the Kroil brand is know for its creaping oil formula.

Just wondering if some one knew what makes one oil better than another for penetrating.

Benny
The Orphanage Never Closes
 
I use a good hydraulic oil like Chevron R & O ISO 46 oil that has rust inhibutors for protection on all bare metal. I also use Chevron Way Oil for all ways, too. Theres others out there, but these two combinations have worked the best for me. Applied with clean paint brush, oil can, clean rags, etc.

I also use Starrett M-1 for very short term protection as well as on all my precision tools. Long term protection,CRC 3-33.

WD-40 is banned from my shop!
 
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